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"Crash, clang, ding-ding, BANG!"
The incessant din, hurtling up from the road below our mountainside homestay, bounced off the eaves into the bedroom, waking me from a deep sleep. Jamie and I dragged our sluggish bodies downstairs for breakfast.
Darjeeling, like most places in the Himalaya, is a Buddhist community. And like the rest of India there is a parade, festival or celebration nearly every week. Today a colourful banner declared, “2600 years of the enlightenment of Lord Buddha".
We gobbled up our toast and drained cups of sweet masala tea before heading out to join the procession.
Orchestral manoeuvres in the alleys
Maroon and orange-clad monks banged drums and cymbals with devoted concentration, or blew as hard as possible on a variety of horns, without varying the note. One instrument was around ten feet long: the business end held by the 'blower' (to call him a musician would be a stretch too far), while at the other end a second man supported two of these gigantic musical pipes under his arms.
As one band receded with its crowd of followers, the next little group arrived. The percussion sections beat out an impressive rhythm, but I tried in vain to identify a melody among the single-layered notes blasting out from the wind sections. To add to the cacophony a few high-spirited young men set off deafening fire crackers down dark, side alleys.
Not all blessings are disguised
Some of the monks carried ornate and colourful statues of Buddha in palanquins. Arranged across two parallel bars they held Him on their shoulders. Devotees, with serious expressions or a surreptitious smile, lowered their heads and threaded their way underneath the icons between the monks.
Towards the end we broke through the throng and joined the worshippers. It was a happy occasion, and away from the bands people walked in silence or chatted quietly as they slowly followed behind the monks. We walked side by side with tiny, ancient crones in tribal dress; young mothers in tight western clothes, holding babies; groups of schoolgirls; bent grandfathers; brightly coloured, swaddled toddlers; and wiry mountain men.
Some devotees carried rectangular prayer boxes brought from the temples. with which they blessed the crowd by touching the boxes to bowed heads. I was blessed, but to the amusement of my neighbours the sharp wooden corners crashing onto my crown made me yelp. Someone was listening because my prayers to not end up bleeding and bruised were answered.
Sweet smelling smoke
The procession lasted until lunchtime and took us on a thorough tour of the eastern 'Queen of Hills'. At small stations along the route we were offered water and orange juice to keep up our strength.
We passed quietly along steep, narrow passages in the town centre where women in open windows, or standing on balconies, gently fanned plumes of incense through clothes lines strung with washing. Snatches of music drifted towards us.
The fragrant smoke filtered downwards in the chilly mountain air, mingling with the damp, earthy smell of this magical autumnal day.
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
Darjeeling. Take a jeep from New Jalpaiguri station in West Bengal. Expect to pay around 150 to 200 INR per seat, but the space allocated for a 'seat' is tiny. Buy two seats per person, better still rent the whole bench seat behind the driver (the equivalent of four seats).
You could take Unesco World Heritage 'Toy' Train all the way, but it's a long, slow boot. Better to take an excursion on the train from Darjeeling to Ghoom for a morning.
On a banner stretched across the main road we read "2600 years of the enlightenment of Lord Buddha". By chance we had arrived just in time to join in the celebratory procession planned for the next day. At a mere 2100m Darjeeling is unlikely to strike you down with altitude sickness, but be prepared for an ear-popping drive from the Indian plains as you ascend two kilometres in four hours.
We arrived at NJP in the morning, after an Arctic overnight experience on the Padatik Express from Kolkata. Why do they insist on having the a/c turned up to 'eleven' on Indian trains? Like our neighbours, we had come prepared: we all went to bed wearing an assortment of woolly socks, bobble hats and fleeces.
New Jalpaiguri shake down
Within minutes of disembarking from our igloos, we were back in the shrieking, dusty heat of an Indian railway station. Outside the station rows of 4WDs lined the car park, six deep and all touting for business. Blinking in the morning light, we tried to decide which ride to choose. A quick poll of the first few vehicles revealed that the going rate for Darjeeling was 200Rs each (about £3). Great. There was a catch. 200Rs would get us a seat, but each 'Jeep' took 10 people: two next to the driver, four in the back seat and a further four in the boot, on fold-down chairs.
Jamie and I are not small, so we agreed to pay 800Rs for the four middle seats. We got in and waited for the vehicle to fill up. And we waited. Other cars, laden down with passengers, headed off. A little crumpled, and slightly irritable from our journey, we sat and simmered. Nothing happened. A family of four approached.
“Shall we share this Jeep?”
Delighted with the suggestion we agreed, and a happy deal was struck. Just as we were about to leave the driver asked us for an extra 400Rs.
“We will pay 800Rs and you will pay 1200,” explained the father of the family.
Er, no? Twenty minutes of lively negotiation between the family, us and the driver took us nowhere. You probably think haggling over 400Rs is churlish. There have been plenty of times around the world when we haven't minded paying over the odds because we are seen as 'rich' foreign tourists in a poor area; in this case it was the (clearly loaded) father of the family who was chiseling us, not the driver. By now, most of the other cars had left, so in a moment of theatricality – while Jamie continued his discussions – I got out and removed my case from the roof. I found a driver who agreed to take us door to door for 1500Rs, the going rate for a private taxi. This was enough of a spur for the original driver to instantly find a couple more passengers. The problem was solved. As we drove out of the station the taxi driver glowered at me; I felt a pang of guilt for using him to score points in our negotiation.
One mile higher
We left the plains and wound our way upwards into the Himalaya, the driver gunning our Jeep round every blind hairpin bend. Although it was crowded, we were glad to be travelling along the pot-holed roads in a nicely sprung 4WD, rather than a knackered old taxi. Jewel and pastel coloured houses grew out of the mountains on either side of us, colourful bells, blooms and racemes shattering the ubiquitous green of the forest. Roses of every colour and shape, hydrangeas, geraniums and other herbaceous border flowers crowded the pots in the windows and frontages. This area of the mountains is famous for its rhododendrons, with the flowers at their most dazzling in April. As we climbed higher the temperature dropped, reminiscent of an English spring.
The narrow gauge track of the Unesco World Heritage Darjeeling Railway criss-crossed the road, snaking its way towards the same destination as us. We stopped to watch the clanking steam train huff and puff its way past us.
Town in the clouds
Darjeeling is a jumble of British Raj architecture, modern concrete boxes, shacks and tiny lanes. It was teeming with people when we were unceremoniously dumped in the centre. We made some space on the heaving road for our bags and weary bodies and asked around for directions to our hotel. We didn't fancy traipsing through the dank lanes trying to find the entrance, so went for broke and took a taxi to the front door.
The Dekeling Homestay Hotel is situated in the midst of the hubbub. We climbed the steep steps, past a landing, through the wooden reception, up again to the sitting room and finally up another flight of narrow stairs to the top floor. The din by now had receded. The view from our corner room gave us our first high view of the Himalaya: one window faced two kilometres down into the valley, and the other faced north west, across town to the Kanchenjunga massif. India's highest mountain (the third highest peak in the world) wasn't playing ball, and hid itself behind the clouds.
Is this still India?
That afternoon we took a walk in what felt like a new country: the language had changed from Hindi to Nepali, with interesting tribal dialects and languages too; the influence of Tibet and China manifested itself in the almond eyes and straight black hair of the people. Some women wore an apron-like national dress, but many were in western clothes. We saw no sarees, and the only salwar kameezes in evidence were worn by Indian tourists. The local people were quiet and contained; it seemed the incessant chatter we had become used to in the rest of India was coming from the domestic tourists.
Cold and travel weary by 5pm, we stumbled across Joey's pub. It turned out to be a bit of a tourist landmark, but with its cosy bar, ramshackle tables and faded posters it felt immediately like home. Pretty soon our table was filled with beer, cheap whiskey and playing cards. Lovely. The barman ordered a take away for us, and tasty noodles (which we came to learn are the staple of mountain cuisine) soon turned up. Beating Jamie at cards in the bar, and again back at the hotel, was a sure sign that he was 'tired'. So we went to bed early, and slept for twelve and a half hours under the eaves of the world.
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
Dekeling Hotel
51 Gandhi Road
Darjeeling - 734101
West Bengal
INDIA
Phone : 91-354-2254159/2253298
Mobile : 91-09434462408 / 09679734048
Fax : 91-354-2253298
Email : dekeling@sify.com
norbu@dekeling.com
Sunday is a hell in Seoul! The 24.5 million inhabitants all seem to be on the streets at once. If you want peace and quiet, visit Hwagye-sa.
It's an active Buddhist Temple and a home to the International Zen Centre, located at the base of Bukan mountain short 30 min. subway/bus trip from the heart of Seoul.
Go on Sunday and get a free vegan 'Monk Lunch' between 11.30-12.30 on the ground floor of the main building
After lunch there is an intro to beginners at 12.30 upstairs at the Zen Center. Worth the 30 minutes cross-legged sitting on a cushion :o)
Then to streach out a little, take an easy hike up to the mountain spring. Entrance just before the Temple's - follow the small path on the left, curving towards the right around the hill, (don't go straight on) It's a lovely walk.
I can't think of a more peaceful way to spend a Sunday in Seoul.
Subway line 4 (light Blue) to Suyu Station, exit 3,
take No.02 small green bus and get off at Hwagye-sa (Temple), cross the road and walk up the hill for 5 minutes or take taxi (under $3) from Suyu Station exit 3.
A must see, the temple is made out of mirrored glass. Thousands upon thousands of pieces of mirrored glass inset into the walls - if you have ever been to the Amber Palace in Jaipur.
Off Ras Dinendra St and down Badr Das Temple Rd
Stay at the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion if you like quaintness and history, stay at the g Hotel if you prefer hip and contemporary lodging.
Also, tour the Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion, eat at the Gurney Drive food stalls and sample everything.
Don't try to take out illegal CDs or DVDs. Read The Star. Visit Kek Lok Si temple. Take the cable car, but arrive early: the lines are awful. Walk the canopy walk. Buy a Makansutra food guide. Indulge in a MacWaffle at Red Garden.
Trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net
Trip report, with photos, at www.travelmusings.net
Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion:
www.cheongfatttzemansion.com/
g Hotel: www.ghotel.com.my/
Makansutra: www.makansutra.com/index.php
Travelmusings: www.travelmusings.net
The Tiger Temple is a Buddhist temple about 38km from Kanchanaburi. The monks look after numerous animals, among them several tame tigers that walk around freely once a day and can be petted by tourists.
Chuncheon, The City of Lakes, is a typical Korean city with a host of beautiful scenery surrounding it.
I enjoyed a visit to the park near Soyang lake, which is an artificial lake created by a large dam. You can catch a boat (be sure to have your alien card/passport details) and then take a short hike up to a temple.
There is a slightly hidden trail past the temple where you can walk up the mountain and find secluded hermitages and a seven-story stone pagoda waiting to be discovered.
Before you take the boat back, try the deep fried fish in one of the many restaurants - but watch out because the last boat leaves at 6:30!
You can get to Chuncheon from Seoul via a bus or train. You can catch the bus from Dong Seoul station and the train from Dongamak (I think).
This small relaxed town was, for 150 years, the capital of Japan and is just 50 km and one hour from Tokyo Station. Today it draws thousands of tourists and pilgrims to its many shrines and temples.
Many suggested itineraries are available online, I have visited Kamakura about 10 times, generally with students in tow. Here is an abbreviated itinerary that is a little different.
Train to Kita Kamakura. As you leave the station stay on the left-hand side of the tracks. About one minute to Engakuji Zen Temple (allow about one hour). Be sure to visit the Bell (1301) and adjacent tea room (about 140 steps - look for sign) to the right of entrance. Next walk 250 metres south to the Jochiji Temple (on right). Small and quirky, allow 30 minutes.
Now look for the sign to the Hiking Trail to the Great Buddha (Kamakura Daibutsu) at Hase. This takes about 90-120 minutes, the trail is, at times, a little rugged and needs good hiking shoes.
After visiting the Great Buddha (30 minutes) walk to the Hase rail station and take the small, single track train to Kamakura. Now you have time to explore the shops and sites from the station along Komachi Shopping Street to the Tsurugaoka Hachimangu Shrine. Make your way back to the station for your return to Tokyo. You have experienced a little bit of the real Japan.
If you run out of time there is a youth hostel in Hase - Tel: 81-467-243390, Fax: 81-467-243390, Email: info@jyh.or.jp
Kita Kamakura:
www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/foreign01_english/index.html
For more information see the official tourist site:
www.city.kamakura.kanagawa.jp/foreign01_english/index.html
Get the very detailed Hakone & Kamakura information sheet (PG-307) from your local Japan National Tourist Organisation.
For a comprehensive view of Chinese history encompassing its trinity of influential philosophies, take an afternoon to visit Beijing’s Taoist and Confucian temples, finishing up at the Buddhist Lamasery. Far more enlightening than a tiresome push and shove round the Forbidden City or the Great Wall at Badaling.
Best itinerary is to take a taxi to Baiyun Guan (White Cloud Tao Temple) on Baiyun Guan Lu. Then taxi it to Kong Miao (Confucian Temple) and finally cross the road to Yonghe Gong (Tibetan Lamasery) - both are on Yonghe Gong Dajie, close to Yonghe Gong Metro.
Face it - you might think you're going to visit every far-flung corner of the Middle Kingdom but if you're only in Beijing for the 2008 Olympics, forget it. Instead head for this Tibetan Lamasery. The largest of its kind outside the real deal, with its aroma of incense and yak butter, it’s a brief taste of the roof of the world.
Yonghe Gong Dajie 12
Yonghe Gong Metro Station
The kingdom of Lan Xang (Laos) was founded in the mid-14th century and ruled by Buddhist Thai. At the northern capital, Luang Prabang, the influence of the northern Thai city of Chiang Mai predominated; in the southern capital, Vientiane, a mixture of Ayutthaya and Khmer motives prevailed.
www.traveltolao.com
www.dulichnoidia.com
www.dulichnuocngoai.biz
www.bienngoccruise.com
www.easyvietnamadventures.com
www.easyvietnamtravel.com
If you stay in Mykonos, make a day trip to the island of Delos. According the Greek mythology the island was the birthplace of Artemis and Apollo.
Many historic temples, monuments and sites are here, such as the Lions Terrace with the famous statues of the lions, and the House of the Dolphins with amazing mosaics.
The Temple of Olympian Zeus is one of the landmarks of Athens like Acropolis and Parthenon. Its construction began during the 6th century BC and finished in the 2nd century AD by the Roman Emperor Hadrian. The temple of Zeus is situated next to Zappeion at the junction of Vasilissis Amalias and Vasilissis Olgas Avenues, the main entrance is at Vasilissis Olgas Avenue 1. On the same field you can visit Hadrian's Arch.
www.britannica.com/eb/topic-427981/temple-of-Olympian-Zeus
www.in2greece.com/english/places/summer/mainland/athens.htm
Portara is a landmark and one of the main historic site of Naxos. You can see it entering the port of Naxos.
In antiquity it used to be a temple dedicated to Apollo. Amazing sunsets can be photographed from here.
Asklepion in the most important historic site of Kos island, it used to be a therapeutic centre in the antiquity and a temple dedicated to the God Asklepios. It is built on 4 levels and is a fine example of Greek architecture of the 4th century BC. Here taught the famous Hippocrates of Kos.
2-3 miles southwest of Kos town.
www.greekisland.co.uk/kos/kos.htm
www.hotelara.com/kos/
travel.guardian.co.uk/article/2003/jun/19/greece.restandrelaxation
One of the most famous historical places in Greece is Delphi. If you stay in Athens you can take a day trip to Delphi. Visit the museum to see the statue of the Charioteer of Delphi, the temple of Apollo and enjoy the mountain view.
Information and more about Greece:
www.in2greece.com/
What's the unlikeliest thing you'd expect to come across in sleepy coastal Cumbria? A world-class Grand Prix track, perhaps? A herd of wild rhinoceros? How about the European headquarters of Manjushri Mahayana Buddhism?
The Conishead Priory became just that in 1976 when the New Kadampa Tradition sect took over a 19th century mansion and made it their base. As well as the formidable old buildings and picturesque grounds, squatting beneath the Lake District scenery is a huge Buddhist temple.
Guided tours are available only during the summer, though the grounds and temple are open all year round - check the website for more details, or ask at the World Peace Cafe on Cavendish Street in Ulverston.
Off the A5087 Coast Road
info@manjushri.org
www.conisheadpriory.org
Lovely island just off the coast near Pattaya. No commercial pressures or cars, just lots to explore in peace and quiet, including the ruins of a royal palace, a Chinese temple and great views of the sunset. Eat at Pan and David restaurant.
Boat from Si Racha, Chonburi
A beautiful temple like many in Kathmandu but this one is inhabited by hundreds of monkeys that will jump at you and bite you if you catch their eye or annoy them as you try to climb the many steps on the way to the top. It is great fun and the views from the top of the city are breathtaking. Ask a rickshaw driver to take you there.
Swayambhunath temple, Kathmandu, Nepal
It is part of the Angkor temple complex, one of the smaller sites that is far less known by the casual tourist.
Anyone planning on visiting Siem Reap and going to experience the treasures of Angkor needs to know that Angkor Wat is just one of dozens of sites in the immediate vicinity - it is the biggest and undoubtedly the most impressive, but is also incredibly crowded and not particularly relaxing.
Many of the other temples - such as Ta Prom - are far smaller, but also far less busy - when we went to Ta Prom, we had it to ourselves for about an hour, and wondered around Indiana Jones style and were blown away by the serenity and beauty - highly recommended.
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