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The incessant din, hurtling up from the road below our mountainside homestay, bounced off the eaves into the bedroom, waking me from a deep sleep. Jamie and I dragged our sluggish bodies downstairs for breakfast.

Darjeeling, like most places in the Himalaya, is a Buddhist community. And like the rest of India there is a parade, festival or celebration nearly every week. Today a colourful banner declared, “2600 years of the enlightenment of Lord Buddha".

We gobbled up our toast and drained cups of sweet masala tea before heading out to join the procession.
Orchestral manoeuvres in the alleys

Maroon and orange-clad monks banged drums and cymbals with devoted concentration, or blew as hard as possible on a variety of horns, without varying the note. One instrument was around ten feet long: the business end held by the 'blower' (to call him a musician would be a stretch too far), while at the other end a second man supported two of these gigantic musical pipes under his arms.

As one band receded with its crowd of followers, the next little group arrived. The percussion sections beat out an impressive rhythm, but I tried in vain to identify a melody among the single-layered notes blasting out from the wind sections. To add to the cacophony a few high-spirited young men set off deafening fire crackers down dark, side alleys.
Not all blessings are disguised

Some of the monks carried ornate and colourful statues of Buddha in palanquins. Arranged across two parallel bars they held Him on their shoulders. Devotees, with serious expressions or a surreptitious smile, lowered their heads and threaded their way underneath the icons between the monks.

Towards the end we broke through the throng and joined the worshippers. It was a happy occasion, and away from the bands people walked in silence or chatted quietly as they slowly followed behind the monks. We walked side by side with tiny, ancient crones in tribal dress; young mothers in tight western clothes, holding babies; groups of schoolgirls; bent grandfathers; brightly coloured, swaddled toddlers; and wiry mountain men.

Some devotees carried rectangular prayer boxes brought from the temples. with which they blessed the crowd by touching the boxes to bowed heads. I was blessed, but to the amusement of my neighbours the sharp wooden corners crashing onto my crown made me yelp. Someone was listening because my prayers to not end up bleeding and bruised were answered.
Sweet smelling smoke

The procession lasted until lunchtime and took us on a thorough tour of the eastern 'Queen of Hills'. At small stations along the route we were offered water and orange juice to keep up our strength.

We passed quietly along steep, narrow passages in the town centre where women in open windows, or standing on balconies, gently fanned plumes of incense through clothes lines strung with washing. Snatches of music drifted towards us.

The fragrant smoke filtered downwards in the chilly mountain air, mingling with the damp, earthy smell of this magical autumnal day.

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Coldai is along the path of the Alta Via 1 trek through the heart of the Dolomites. You pass Refugio Sonino along the way, where you can get food and a bed for the night if needed.

Refugio Tissi further along is also a great place to stay. But the walk up to the lake and back down could be a day trip from either Palafavera or from Alleghe on the other side of the valley.

The views of and from Lago Coldai are spectacular and the lake is a welcome rest spot, or bathing spot seemingly, if you are one of several eccentric Spanish ladies.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26532 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22907 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22907 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22733
I stayed the night and prepared for my climb up Mt. Olympus the next day. I met many other climbers and was able to receive wonderful advice and tips on trails from both local climbers and travelling climbers.

I was travelling solo, but I met other young adults who joined with me to climb Mt. Olympus.

Summit Zero was the best starting place for my adventure. I was able to leave my bags at the hostel in storage until I returned after my two-day climb. I was able to unwind after the trek by swimming in the Aegean because the beach is just behind the hostel. Summit Zero is the perfect refuge. The is no other place where you can enjoy the setting sun as you float in the waters of the Aegean while admiring the lofty peaks of Mt. Olympus knowing that you had walked the path of the gods.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22733 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21856 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21856 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21779
Arriving in Sapa
The minibus stops at the area where many hotels are clustered. This is not the center. Ask the driver to take you to the market or Royal Hotel, both are good starting points to look for a room. The entrance of the market is Cau May Street, where most budget accommodation can be found. All rooms tend to be equipped with hot water. Only expensive hotels have a/c. The view to the valley is the key to choosing a room.

Weekends are always busy due to the Sunday market at Bac Ha and most hotels put their prices up during the weekend.
The tourist peak and dry season runs from March to May and October to November but it is also a good season for trekking.
The rainy season runs from June to August and is cold at night (Sapa is 1500m above sea level)
There is no tourist office but you can get info at travel agents and there are many in town. They all deal with trekking tours.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21779 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21079 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/21079 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20965 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20965 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20929 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20929 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18588 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18588 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18287 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18287 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18193
A local told us you can follow a trail from Puerto de Navacerrada back down to the town of Cercedilla which takes about three hours.

Absoutely amazing views on top of the mountains of Madrid and Castilla y Leon. Makes for an amazing day out.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18193 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17973
Take the wonderful night train from Stockholm to remind you how train travel ought to be.

Alternatively arrange your own outdoor activities in this beautiful area.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17973 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17857
The journey from Cusco to the jungle on to Machu Picchu with the local Quechua speaking guide involves one night staying by the hot springs in tents, one night with his family (a great experience!), a horse trek, some trekking and the final descent to Aguas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. In the morning, rise early before the other travellers and take in this famous lost Inca citadel.

A more varied experience overall, following a different route to the majority of people and great to get to stay with a local family, even for one night!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17857 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17465 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17465 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17451
The initial hour or two on most trails consists of tarmac/brick roads, but eventually you will come to steep paths and the inevitable steel staircase.

I have been in autumn and found it very pleasant with wonderful weather and beautiful scenery. But, as I mentioned, there are so many people you may have to find yourself queuing to reach the peak!

If you go to Seoraksan, stay in one of the many hotels/motels in nearby Sokcho. There is also a pretty good beach here as well as a street with many fish restaurants. Try the sushi!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17451 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17448 www.petraroest.nl/images/index0.jpg - made me drool.

The guesthouse has double rooms, rooms with multiple beds, big living room, toilets, showers and medical facilities. Dinner and breakfast are included for the guests.

The guesthouse is run by three brothers (Mohamed, Jamal and Rachid Imerhane). They also helped people plan their treks in the mountains.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17448 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16900
Laos is an adventurer’s paradise, offering treks to off the beaten track destinations that few tourists get to. It’s a country that receives relatively few visitors and that is one reason why it is so special and why we love it.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16900 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16797 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16797 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16772 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16772