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On a banner stretched across the main road we read "2600 years of the enlightenment of Lord Buddha". By chance we had arrived just in time to join in the celebratory procession planned for the next day. At a mere 2100m Darjeeling is unlikely to strike you down with altitude sickness, but be prepared for an ear-popping drive from the Indian plains as you ascend two kilometres in four hours.
We arrived at NJP in the morning, after an Arctic overnight experience on the Padatik Express from Kolkata. Why do they insist on having the a/c turned up to 'eleven' on Indian trains? Like our neighbours, we had come prepared: we all went to bed wearing an assortment of woolly socks, bobble hats and fleeces.
New Jalpaiguri shake down
Within minutes of disembarking from our igloos, we were back in the shrieking, dusty heat of an Indian railway station. Outside the station rows of 4WDs lined the car park, six deep and all touting for business. Blinking in the morning light, we tried to decide which ride to choose. A quick poll of the first few vehicles revealed that the going rate for Darjeeling was 200Rs each (about £3). Great. There was a catch. 200Rs would get us a seat, but each 'Jeep' took 10 people: two next to the driver, four in the back seat and a further four in the boot, on fold-down chairs.
Jamie and I are not small, so we agreed to pay 800Rs for the four middle seats. We got in and waited for the vehicle to fill up. And we waited. Other cars, laden down with passengers, headed off. A little crumpled, and slightly irritable from our journey, we sat and simmered. Nothing happened. A family of four approached.
“Shall we share this Jeep?”
Delighted with the suggestion we agreed, and a happy deal was struck. Just as we were about to leave the driver asked us for an extra 400Rs.
“We will pay 800Rs and you will pay 1200,” explained the father of the family.
Er, no? Twenty minutes of lively negotiation between the family, us and the driver took us nowhere. You probably think haggling over 400Rs is churlish. There have been plenty of times around the world when we haven't minded paying over the odds because we are seen as 'rich' foreign tourists in a poor area; in this case it was the (clearly loaded) father of the family who was chiseling us, not the driver. By now, most of the other cars had left, so in a moment of theatricality – while Jamie continued his discussions – I got out and removed my case from the roof. I found a driver who agreed to take us door to door for 1500Rs, the going rate for a private taxi. This was enough of a spur for the original driver to instantly find a couple more passengers. The problem was solved. As we drove out of the station the taxi driver glowered at me; I felt a pang of guilt for using him to score points in our negotiation.
One mile higher
We left the plains and wound our way upwards into the Himalaya, the driver gunning our Jeep round every blind hairpin bend. Although it was crowded, we were glad to be travelling along the pot-holed roads in a nicely sprung 4WD, rather than a knackered old taxi. Jewel and pastel coloured houses grew out of the mountains on either side of us, colourful bells, blooms and racemes shattering the ubiquitous green of the forest. Roses of every colour and shape, hydrangeas, geraniums and other herbaceous border flowers crowded the pots in the windows and frontages. This area of the mountains is famous for its rhododendrons, with the flowers at their most dazzling in April. As we climbed higher the temperature dropped, reminiscent of an English spring.
The narrow gauge track of the Unesco World Heritage Darjeeling Railway criss-crossed the road, snaking its way towards the same destination as us. We stopped to watch the clanking steam train huff and puff its way past us.
Town in the clouds
Darjeeling is a jumble of British Raj architecture, modern concrete boxes, shacks and tiny lanes. It was teeming with people when we were unceremoniously dumped in the centre. We made some space on the heaving road for our bags and weary bodies and asked around for directions to our hotel. We didn't fancy traipsing through the dank lanes trying to find the entrance, so went for broke and took a taxi to the front door.
The Dekeling Homestay Hotel is situated in the midst of the hubbub. We climbed the steep steps, past a landing, through the wooden reception, up again to the sitting room and finally up another flight of narrow stairs to the top floor. The din by now had receded. The view from our corner room gave us our first high view of the Himalaya: one window faced two kilometres down into the valley, and the other faced north west, across town to the Kanchenjunga massif. India's highest mountain (the third highest peak in the world) wasn't playing ball, and hid itself behind the clouds.
Is this still India?
That afternoon we took a walk in what felt like a new country: the language had changed from Hindi to Nepali, with interesting tribal dialects and languages too; the influence of Tibet and China manifested itself in the almond eyes and straight black hair of the people. Some women wore an apron-like national dress, but many were in western clothes. We saw no sarees, and the only salwar kameezes in evidence were worn by Indian tourists. The local people were quiet and contained; it seemed the incessant chatter we had become used to in the rest of India was coming from the domestic tourists.
Cold and travel weary by 5pm, we stumbled across Joey's pub. It turned out to be a bit of a tourist landmark, but with its cosy bar, ramshackle tables and faded posters it felt immediately like home. Pretty soon our table was filled with beer, cheap whiskey and playing cards. Lovely. The barman ordered a take away for us, and tasty noodles (which we came to learn are the staple of mountain cuisine) soon turned up. Beating Jamie at cards in the bar, and again back at the hotel, was a sure sign that he was 'tired'. So we went to bed early, and slept for twelve and a half hours under the eaves of the world.
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
Dekeling Hotel
51 Gandhi Road
Darjeeling - 734101
West Bengal
INDIA
Phone : 91-354-2254159/2253298
Mobile : 91-09434462408 / 09679734048
Fax : 91-354-2253298
Email : dekeling@sify.com
norbu@dekeling.com
Twinkling blue seas, white sails, faraway views, beaches, birds and blossoms! And yes, some palm trees. A stone's throw from good rail and road links, by car or bus, yet Hayling's few miles offer peace and beauty.
Stop at the bridge for two good pubs, the Ship and the Royal Oak, then cross to the island, carry straight on for about five miles to reach the seafront. Or turn left at the bridge for leafy country lanes, and pretty Northney with its ancient church, or West Lane (by the bends) for fields and trees.
The Billy Trail (once a rail track) overlooking Langstone Harbour and distant Portsmouth, can be walked or cycled. The uncrowded western shore, past the wind and kite surfers, offers views across the Solent to the Isle of Wight and a pub and ferry to Southsea. At the eastern end, there's the entrance to Chichester Harbour (AONB) looking across to West Wittering and the South Downs, with sailing clubs, marina, RNLI station and Marina Jaks' restaurant. There are boats everywhere, and seaside delights - holiday camps, beach huts, funfair, ice-cream, a train ride across the common, pubs, fish and chips. Plus, regular sailing events, scarecrow competion (Aug), and artists' trail (May). The weather's often surprisingly benign, and the locals, on perpetual holiday, are friendly!
Hayling Island is next to Portsmouth, in Hampshire. Frequent trains from London and along the south coast to Havant station, very near bus station. Just off A27, linking to M27 & A3(M) Plenty of car parks, but car park charges. www.hayling.co.uk/
Google map: bit.ly/9XaxGT
Start your canalside walk in Llangollen and your towpath stroll transforms into a white-knuckle walk as the hillside drops away and you find yourslf 126ft up on Thomas Telford's amazing aqueduct, which carries the canal for 1,007 feet straight across the river Dee below. The canal mostly winds lazily following the contours of the hills, the wooded banks giving way now and again to spectacular views of mountain and the beautiful Dee valley.
There's a full spectrum of activities: languid rides on the steam railway or horse-drawn boats, or white-water rafting, kayaking, abseilling, climbing and mountain biking – not forgetting the famous Eisteddfod and the museum for culture vultures. Accommodation ranges from the four-star Llangollen hostel (01978 861773, llangollenhostel.co.uk) to luxury narrowboats from Anglo Welsh (anglowelsh.co.uk, 0117 304 1122). The best B&B is the Bryn Merion (01978 861911).
From Llangollen, Snowdonia, to Nantwich, Cheshire, (canaljunction.com/canal/llangollen.htm
I always recommend that visitors to LA see this art deco building with its three domes and the best view of LA, as well as offering a planetarium show and telescopes that public may view. 10-10 Sat Sun and Tue to Fri 12-10
Griffith Park, Shuttle bus on Sat and Sun from Red line subway station at Vermont and Sunset griffithobservatory.org +1 213.473.0800
A stunning gorge at the foot of the Sierra Nevada. Rich in climbing crags for all levels, waterfall walks and breathtaking scenery.
We had a week climbing holiday in the area with two days there with a local travel company www.alhambrarambler.com
1km out of Monachil via Granada Andalucia
Norsehaven is the kind of place you can only dream about when in London. It is not the easiest of places to get to, being on the very north western tip of mainland Britain, but the trip is worth it. You could not be further from the stresses of the city when up there.
We have just returned from a week in Ceannabeinne, a lovingly restored croft nestled on the cliff side, with unspoilt sea views that are to die for. It is almost unbelievably idyllic - it has to be seen to be believed!
web: www.norsehaven.com
tel: 01732 882320
map: maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?hl=en&ie=UTF8&msa=0&msid=104563659452458983581.000454e2a5aa490185440&ll=58.532964,-4.74300424,0.219727&z=12
Less than an hour by bus or car from Cagliari and Sardinia's celebrated coastline, the Monti dei Setti Fratelli show a completely different side to this beautiful Mediterranean island.
Lush, forested slopes laced with a network of footpaths afford stunning views over scenes straight out of rainforest documentaries. There are walks and hikes for all abilities, and ample shade prevents the threat of heat exhaustion. A refreshing break from sunbathing.
Monti dei Setti Fratelli National Park, between Cagliari and Muravera in south-eastern Sardinia.
Beautiful gorge that cuts through the hills around Tinerhir. In the area you can find deserted kasbahs, mud-brick villages and palmerias. All of which are truly inspiring as I am a keen photographer. I had a great time trekking there on a recent holiday. It certainly rivals the Grand Canyon in terms of beauty.
www.adventurecompany.co.uk/country-overview.aspx?productid=34913
It is amazing how exposed it is walking along the coast up north and I am always taken by surprise when I get up there.
Along the Northumbrian coast.
At the lodge at the Centro Ecologico Sian Ka'an we slept in a bed inside a tent set inside a thatch-roofed hut. Outside our cabin was a private patio and on our stoop was a hammock. The beach, with a few thatch umbrellas, is only twelve feet or so below, but to protect the vegetation on the dune you had to find the way to a wooden ladder. The lodge has no electricity except in the restaurant/reception area, though you can borrow a lamp after dark. There’s salt water in the taps and showers (but in Mexico you have to use bottled water anyway). Meals are on the roofdecks and from here we watched a vast sunset over the lagoon, followed by Venus and then the undimmed stars.
Centro Ecologico Sian Ka'an (CESiaK) Federal Road (307) Cancun-Tulum, #68 Tulum, Quintana Roo, Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. Tel: (52) 984-871-2499 info@CESiaK.org
The plane in from Queenstown is spectacular, but the drive from Te Anau is easily its equal. The books say allow two hours for the 120km drive but to be honest, give yourself three and enjoy the spectacular journey. Best place to view keas (alpine parrots) is at the entrance to the Homer Tunnel.
Cycling is becoming a way of transport more than a sport in many countries but not in Spain. Anyway, in Europe there are thousans of wonderful places for cycling and here, in Spain too. If you want to spend a day in your bike and, at the same time, enjoy the summer days near the coast, do not doubt to try the following route in Pontevedra, Spain.
It is a route from the regal noble town of Cambados to the island of Arousa.
The route starts in Cambados, a town full of history and magnificent architecture. In this town, it outstands the Pazo de Fefiñáns. The route is along the coast, with a fantastic view of the beautiful and quiet Atlantic Ocean. The next stop is the Illa de Aoursa, the biggest island of Galicia. It is joined to the land by a bridge. In this island, there are remains of old civilizations that recall us it was an isolated island. It is a paradise island because it is not very exploited and there are almost 80 wild beaches and some of them with Blue FLag. You must know this island is rich in fauna and flora, and it is the perfect place to enjoy the different species of birds.
If you’re driving around north Devon, then you can easily be crossing Exmoor without realising it. It’s a National Park that extends from the Lynton and Lynmouth coastline to the Quantock hills of Somerset and features some of the most beautiful and dramatic landscapes in England.
It offers some spectacular walks and is home to a huge range of wildlife, not least its very own Exmoor pony.
North Devon
www.visit-exmoor.info/
Hydra is a great place to visit if you like taking photographs. You would think that the entire island had been deliberately set up for the perfect photo shoot. You just can't go wrong. The colours, quaintness, odd little corners, the donkeys (there aren't any cars) and the reflections are gorgeous and that's just in the port!
I love going up the hills to get the best sunsets especially in the spring when there's still enough cloud about to make them interesting. And inland there are hundreds of pretty chapels normally stranded in the middle of a field that just beg to be snapped. Come with plenty of extra memory and batteries - you'll need them for sure.
One of the Greek Saronic Islands, 1.5 hours SW out of Piraeus, hugging the Peloponnese coastline.
Fly into www.AIA.gr
Take a taxi or the Express bus to Piraeus
Cross to the island with www.dolphins.gr or www.euroseas.com
And for comprehensive island information visit www.hydradirect.com
Lovely rustic restaurant at the top of the hill above Korcula. Good food and wine plus breathtaking views.
Restaurant Grubinjac
Zrnovo
Island of Korcula
Croatia
Tel: 00 385 20 711 410
web: www.korculainfo.com/restaurants/restaurant-grubinjac-zrnovo-korcula.htm
A true circular tour, only 100m duplicated, along the Spree and a canal. The tour continues through the very centre of Berlin, under bridges so low you have to duck on the top deck, up and down in locks,and and re-crossing the line of the Wall. Commentary is in German only, but you don't need it.
Starts from Schloss Charlottenberg. About 1/2m walk from Opera U-bahn station.
This festival rocks. Who couldn't resist the lure of an enchanting landscape and one of the best line-ups I’ve seen in years? I’ll definitely be back. No other festival can quite compete with its wicked, friendly crowd, beautiful views and lovely weather (how did they manage that in Scotland?)
The Isle of Skye is the most northerly island of the Inner Hebrides.
www.skyemusicfestival.co.uk.
Leh is a truly beautiful and exceptional place. Don't be put off by its isolation from the rest of India. You can make a two-day road trip at the right time of year or a flight from Delhi gets you there in an hour. Since the road was still blocked with snow I was forced to choose the latter option.
Flying so low over the Himalayas is breathtaking enough but it's arriving at an altitude of 3,500m that gives your lungs the real workout. No matter how much you want to get out into this stunning landscape you must rest if you fly in. And I’m not talking about a few hours kip - you may need several days of relative inactivity before you start to feel acclimatised.
If you are looking to make a trekking trip wait until your body is feeling ready. Don’t book it too early and find yourself not ready - you may well pay a penalty fee. On the other hand if you book a trek and feel obliged to go ahead when you’re not ready you may well put yourself in danger. Remember that you are likely to go higher than Leh when you walk so even if you are starting to feel fine going up further too quickly could well cause problems.
Leh is in Ladakh at the top of the India near the Tibetan border.
Fantastic views at sunset. Head upstairs to the roof and order 2 for 1 cocktails that come to 3 US dollars for 2 drinks. Watch the street kids harass the tourists, lots of fun... then don't forget to order heaps of spring rolls to give to the kids when you leave.
On the corner of the bar street, one block from the old market.
Go to the Museum absorb some modern Czech Art & Culture, then if the sun is shining eat at Restaurant belonging to the museum, The Sovovy Mlyny. Sit on the terrace, have a long leisurely lunch. Enjoy beautiful views of The Vltava and Charles Bridge. Listen to the Wier. Don’t let the cold put you off. They bring blankets!
www.museumkampa.cz/ Sovovy Mlyny Restaurant U Sovovych Mlynu 2 Mala Strana, Prague 1 Czech Republic.
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