We pack our tent in the car and go on self-guided trips around Spain’s wine and cider regions. A cheap ferry crossing from Dover and avoiding toll roads cuts costs. Susie Barrie’s wine book gives tips on the best bodegas to visit and most tours/tastings are free but we buy at least one bottle as a thank you. The following towns have campsites so you can eat out or do tastings on foot: Haro in Rioja, Penafiel in Ribera del Duero, Olite, in Navarra and Arriondas in the cider region. Budget but beautiful wines are sold at Inurrieta in Navarra and Albet i Noya in Penedes. The Priorat region is usually pricy but at Celler Cecilio they fill up plastic bottles with a great table wine straight from the tank.

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Less than an hour from the bustle of Lisbon, you can be in the rolling hills and vineyards of Estremadura, where some of Portugal's top wines are produced. Guided day tours of the vineyards are offered by Vitis-route: the guide owns a vineyard himself, and will take you to his favourite local villages and restaurants around Alenquer and the fishing village of Ericeira.

www.vitis-route.com
+351 912 002 847

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The famous wine producing town of Eger is situated 128km north east of Budapest and nestles in a sundried valley between the Mátra and Bükk mountain ranges. Eger is famous for its minaret, Egri Bikavér wine and the heroic legend attached to its castle.
Bikavér is a potent hair-on-your-chest brew which suits Eger’s sunbaked hillsides and colourful Mediterranean atmosphere.
Known abroad as Bull’s Blood, the wine brings thousands of tourists to the town and surrounding valleys.
A good time to visit is during the wine harvest season, in September and October, when the 'szuret' (harvest) provides the excuse for festivals, events and enthusiastic sampling of the year’s brew.
Serious drinkers go to the source. A brisk 20-minute walk away and you are in the "Valley of the Beautiful Woman".
The 'Szépasszony völgy' lies just west of town and although most guide books suggest taking a taxi, there really is no need. A relaxing walk through pleasant tree-lined suburbs will stimulate your thirst.
As you reach the brow of the hill, there it is spread out in front of you: the wine lover’s paradise.
It's a sun-baked valley, where 200 wine cellars form a horse shoe shape surrounding a grassy park. Some cellars have tables outside, some have musicians inside.
Besides Bikavér, Eger’s vineyards also produce Medoc Noir, a sweet red dessert wine, and the white Egri leányka, which is honey-coloured and slightly flavored with herbs. Wines can be sampled for around 30p a glass. Egeszségedre!! (Cheers!)

www.egertravel.hu
Szépasszonyvölgy, Eger
Google map: bit.ly/V8xbm3
szepasszonyvolgy.info

* Lucy is our Been there local for London. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/london-local-lucy-mallows.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/LucyRM.jsp

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Peljesac is the famous Croatian wine region. There you can find the best Croatian red wines made out of the Plavac Mali variety of grape. There is even more to it. Mike Grgich from Grgich Hills in Napa Valley, California was born on Peljesac, and when he came to California he saw the Zinfandel variety there, and was sure it was Plavac Mali, which he has grown since being a child, with his parents. He used his knowledge to make the best Chardonnay in the world. Later, it was genetically proven that Plavac Mali is a parent of Zinfandel. So Mike Grgich emigrated from Croatia with a diploma, and all across the Atlantic ocean he found what he left in his homeland, and made the world's best wine out of it. What a story! I have visited Grgich vinery on Peljesac this summer, near the village of Trstenik.

www.dubrovnik.in/peljesac-peninsula/

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This is a fairly decent winery (Washington wines are some of the very best in the country), located on the northern side of the Columbia River. Apart from the opportunity to sample wine in a fantastic setting, this is a truly unique location because of its Stonehenge Memorial, which is a replica (but fully built) of Stonehenge, which serves as a war memorial, as a reminder that as they say: “humanity is still being sacrificed to the god of war.”
Coming from Washington (especially if you are on a wine tour that might include Walla Walla - about which I must write one day) a stop at Maryhill would work as a gateway to the Columbia Gorge on a trip through some very interesting towns, beautiful waterfalls (Multnomah especially), and great bicycle rides), on the way to Portland in Oregon - a fantastic destination in its own right.
The strangeness of the Stonehenge Memorial doesn't really dissipate, even as you enjoy the wine, and if you're lucky a performance in the amphitheatre, or a visit to the attached Art Museum.
If heading on to Portland, try stopping at Hood River (home to Full Sail Brewery and lots of parasailing), or Stevenson - nestled in temperate forest. It's all very beautiful.

www.maryhillmuseum.org/
www.maryhillwinery.com/
Maryhill Winery, 877 Maryhill, 9774 Highway 14 Goldendale, WA.
+1 877 627 9445
Google map: bit.ly/uNTjdj

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This is a fairly decent winery (Washington wines are some of the very best in the country), located on the northern side of the Columbia River. Apart from the opportunity to sample wine in a fantastic setting, this is a truly unique location because of its Stonehenge Memorial, which is a replica (but fully built) of Stonehenge, which serves as a war memorial, as a reminder that as they say: “humanity is still being sacrificed to the god of war.”
Coming from Washington (especially if you are on a wine tour that might include Walla Walla - about which I must write one day) a stop at Maryhill would work as a gateway to the Columbia Gorge on a trip through some very interesting towns, beautiful waterfalls (Multnomah especially), and great bicycle rides), on the way to Portland in Oregon - a fantastic destination in its own right.
The strangeness of the Stonehenge Memorial doesn't really dissipate, even as you enjoy the wine, and if you're lucky a performance in the amphitheatre, or a visit to the attached Art Museum.
If heading on to Portland, try stopping at Hood River (home to Full Sail Brewery and lots of parasailing), or Stevenson - nestled in temperate forest. It's all very beautiful.

www.maryhillwinery.com/
9774 Highway 14, Goldendale, WA
+1 877 627 9445

Museum & Stonehenge: www.maryhillmuseum.org/

You'll need to drive most likely, so make sure you have a designated driver.

Google map: bit.ly/tT054S

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Take a day trip to Montalcino, a medieval walled town set high on a hill. Spend the morning wandering around its narrow streets and squares before going to sample the world famous Brunello wine. The most atmospheric place to do this is in the Enoteca La Fortezza, situated inside the 14th century fortress that dominates the skyline. The stone vaults are filled with excellent wines and you can also buy local prosciutto, salami and pecorino cheese. Glasses of Brunello start at about €4 and the friendly staff are happy to help if you need some advice on which wine to choose.

Piazzale della Fortezza, 9
53024 Montalcino Sienna, Italy
+39(0)577 849211
www.enotecalafortezza.it
Google map: bit.ly/lqadvU

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Had a fantastic long weekend in Bordeaux recently and spent a day touring vineyards with Caroline of Bordeaux Uncorked.
It felt like the obligatory thing to do (when in Rome, etc) but the wealth of local knowledge and personal service provided by Caroline really made the whole trip for us. I don't think we would have had access to many of the vineyards on our own and having Caroline greeted everywhere by first name made us feel like we were visiting old friends, with very impressive chateaux and wine cellars!
Highlights of the trip: Chateau Figeac and it's ancient cellars. Also recommend lunch in the courtyard at L'Envers du Décor in Saint Emilion.
In Bordeaux itself, pay a visit to Max Bordeaux - a must if you love wine but restricted by budget. Here you can taste some of the most expensive wines by the (small) glass. Taste the liquid gold of Chateau Yquem for under €15? Not a problem. Thanks Bordeaux Uncorked!

www.bordeauxuncorked.fr

Max Bordeaux
14 Cours de l'Intendance, 33000 Bordeaux
+33(0)5 57 29 23 81
Google map: bit.ly/i7bsv6

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A great excursion from Lima is a visit to the desert city of Ica and the nearby oasis, called Huacachina. There are numerous hotels around the oasis to suit different budgets, as well as several restaurants.
From Huacachina you can ride in a sand buggy over the dunes, or, my preferred activity, you can visit the local vineyards and pisco distilleries. Pisco is a kind of Peruvian non-aged brandy, which is something of a national icon.
Your hotel in Huacachina should be able to organise a tour to visit three or four local vineyards and distilleries where you can sample Peruvian wine (surprisingly delicious), pisco and pisco sour.
There are modern mechanised and artisan distilleries, you should visit one or two of each on the tour.

Ica is a four hour bus ride from Lima. From Ica, a taxi to Huacachina should take 15 mins and cost a few dollars.
Google map: bit.ly/i62C6l

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Anyone contemplating a trip to a French wine producer will be able to identify independent producers who operate under the umbrella of "Vignerons Independant",

I have visited a few of the many producers around Beaujolais, they are fiercely independent and are rightly proud of their wines. They may not speak much English and their wine will not necessarily be cheap, but it will be different from the standard wines produced by the negociants and the experience is worth it.

Bear in mind that the producers are understandably keen to sell and your reception will depend on your perceived willingness to buy.

Also consider when you buy, if you buy in summer on the way out your wine is likely to suffer from prolonged exposure to heat.

Some villages run annual Foire aux Vins, if you happen to find yourself in the vicinity of one it should be worth a visit, it is a long time since I visited Vouvray but I have very happy memories of the Foire which is held over a week-end every August, enquire at the local tourism office or perhaps the Guardian could produce a definitive calendar. I would be happy to assist with any research on the ground!

www.vigneron-independant.com/tourismeetvins/?langue=fr

Google map: tinyurl.com/37ugpng

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A small vineyard in the heart of the beautiful Beaujolais landscape, only 10 minutes from the Paris-Marseilles motorway. The friendly English owners, who won a gold medal for their 2009 Morgon appelation, can give keen visitors a fascinating tour of the actual vines with descriptions of why the various rocks and soils produce the different tastes. Everything is done on the premises, so the entire process can be described from start to finish - ending up in the vaulted cellars. They say it is best to ring ahead for this sort of tour.

69910 Villié-Morgan
Tel: + 33 6 13 87 23 22
www.largrangecochard.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/yyj5dcc

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Domaine de Ris is the only remaining vineyard in Touraine du Sud and is owned and run by Gilbert and Ghislaine Sabadie. They produce six types of wine – reds and whites plus a sparkling white. We thought their Jeugneur Celiment is a lovely red.

37290 Bossay-sur-Claise, Indre-et-Loire Centre
Tel : +33 2 47 94 64 43
Google map: tinyurl.com/y7h8z39

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Nestling below the beautiful medieval Luberon village of Menerbes, is the impressive Domaine de la Citadelle, where you can explore the cellars and, of course, taste its award-winning wines, reflecting the aura and scented scenery of their terroir – it is best visited in spring when it emerges from a sea of cherry blossom. The Domaine has another attraction - it houses a unique private collection, in its musée du tire-bouchon (corkscrew museum), of more than 1,000 corkscrews (apparently an English invention) from around the world, from the 17th century to the present day, and ranging from the whacky to the exquisite. Some surprising and unforgettable exhibits.

Domaine de la Citadelle, 84560 Menerbes.
+33 4 90 72 41 58
www.domaine-citadelle.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/y6gq545
www.avignon-et-provence.com/museums/corkscrews-museum/

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We were vineyard virgins staying in a friend’s holiday house in Autignac. Unable to resist the attractively simple sign for Domaine La Croix Belle we drove gingerly into the courtyard. Although unplanned and uninvited the vineyard owner’s hospitality that day totally won us over. We said “au revoir” with some choice cases. This gem of a find, especially for such novices, has since become a legend with our friends – on every visit the holiday-home owners now fill their boot at La Croix Belle.

34480 Puissalicon
www.croix-belle.com
+33 4 67 36 27 23

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Michel Julien makes the most wonderful wine at his property just outside the ancient village of Caunes-Minervois. He gives you a tasting of his superb range of red, white and rose wines in the small chapel which is part of his property.

Chateau Villerambert-Julien, Caunes-Minervois, 11160.
Tel: +33 4 68 78 00 01.
www.villerambert-julien.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/y2olbnd

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Kirstie and Paul Rowbotham moved here from the UK about three years ago, taking over this small vineyard near the village of Les Leves-et-Thoumeyragues. We were welcomed by Kirstie who showed our family around the vines, discussed the wine-making process and told us her story. Paul then took the adults inside for the serious business of tasting their excellent range of wines, while our three small children were entertained in grand style in the lovely family garden by Kirstie's father, "Poppy" – the highlight being a gentle circuit of the garden in the sidecar of his shiny black Triumph.

Chateau La Tour de Chollet
Chollet
33220 Les Leves et Thoumeyragues
Gironde
Telephone: +33 (0) 5 57 41 39 66
www.latourdechollet.com
tinyurl.com/yyba332

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A charming four-star hotel on the R44 in the Stellenbosch Winelands. We were impressed with the quaint Oregon style. The swimming pool has a magnificent view on the Stellenbosch Mountains. The service was good old fashioned hospitality and the food was great home cooking. Definately a home from Home experience.

25 Canterbury Lane, Blaauwklippen Village, Stellenbosch.
www.stblodge.co.za
+2721 8880100

Google map: tinyurl.com/y9yrlzw

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It's easy to miss this winery - as soon as you've turned off the R44 heading west, look out for the Forrester sign immediately on your left. Don't expect to see the swanky entrances of the Grandes Dames of the SA wine industry like Vergelegen or Groot Constantia, Ken's driveway looks more like the entrance to a private residence. As you head up to the winery, watch out for Ken's snail police - a flock of rather noisy geese. The emphasis here is not on presentation but on attention to detail in the winemaking process. KF has done more for the humble Chenin Blanc grape than an american soft drinks company has done for brown sugary water. Try the simply stunning 'FMC' (officially Forrester Meinert Chenin, unofficially f****** marvellous chenin) to taste what can be done with the grape that the french use to produce a liquid to clean their tractors with. Equally stunning is the red blend, 'Gypsy', produced from grenache, syrah, and mourvedre grapes. There are lower-priced, everyday-drinking wines too, with most available in the UK from Great Western Wine of Bath. Ken, you're the man!

Ken Forrester Vineyards, Winery Road, Stellenbosch, South Africa
Tel: +27 21 855 2374

www.kenforresterwines.com/

Google map: tinyurl.com/ye7raxq

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Most people wanting a meal out in South Africa's winelands head to the tourist hotspots of Franschoek and Stellenbosch. But travel a little further down the N1, via the stunning Du Toitskloof Pass (worth a trip in its own right), and you will find this fantastic little place. The Bistro is upstairs, and spills out onto a balcony looking straight over the Slanghoek mountains and the vineyards on the valley floor. There is a wonderful sense of space, and of escaping the crowds on the Cape Town side of the mountains.

The food is wonderful (sandwiches etc or full meals, all beautifully prepared), the service always friendly and attentive, and the wines (by winemaker Ivy Du Toit) are a treat. (You can buy bottles at a fraction of the price of Franschoek vineyards). I can recommend the sparkling Rose!

This was our favourite place when we lived in and travelled around SA - for good food in peaceful, beautiful surroundings, you can't beat it.

Contact: 0027 82 265 4492
Email: bistro@jasonshill.co.za
www.jasonshill.co.za
P.O.BOX 14, RAWSONVILLE 6845 SOUTH AFRICA

Google map: tinyurl.com/ya29gn8

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The reason for recommending this place is not only the food but the setting. If you are going for a wine tour in the winelands region of Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Paarl, then the combination of view and food here is ideal. It is slightly elevated as it requires a five minute drive up the valley, but this elevation offers beautiful views of the whole valley.

www.dieudonnerestaurant.co.za/
PO Box 94, Franschoek, 7690
+27(0)218762493

Google map: tinyurl.com/yaxwupn

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