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On a banner stretched across the main road we read "2600 years of the enlightenment of Lord Buddha". By chance we had arrived just in time to join in the celebratory procession planned for the next day. At a mere 2100m Darjeeling is unlikely to strike you down with altitude sickness, but be prepared for an ear-popping drive from the Indian plains as you ascend two kilometres in four hours.
We arrived at NJP in the morning, after an Arctic overnight experience on the Padatik Express from Kolkata. Why do they insist on having the a/c turned up to 'eleven' on Indian trains? Like our neighbours, we had come prepared: we all went to bed wearing an assortment of woolly socks, bobble hats and fleeces.
New Jalpaiguri shake down
Within minutes of disembarking from our igloos, we were back in the shrieking, dusty heat of an Indian railway station. Outside the station rows of 4WDs lined the car park, six deep and all touting for business. Blinking in the morning light, we tried to decide which ride to choose. A quick poll of the first few vehicles revealed that the going rate for Darjeeling was 200Rs each (about £3). Great. There was a catch. 200Rs would get us a seat, but each 'Jeep' took 10 people: two next to the driver, four in the back seat and a further four in the boot, on fold-down chairs.
Jamie and I are not small, so we agreed to pay 800Rs for the four middle seats. We got in and waited for the vehicle to fill up. And we waited. Other cars, laden down with passengers, headed off. A little crumpled, and slightly irritable from our journey, we sat and simmered. Nothing happened. A family of four approached.
“Shall we share this Jeep?”
Delighted with the suggestion we agreed, and a happy deal was struck. Just as we were about to leave the driver asked us for an extra 400Rs.
“We will pay 800Rs and you will pay 1200,” explained the father of the family.
Er, no? Twenty minutes of lively negotiation between the family, us and the driver took us nowhere. You probably think haggling over 400Rs is churlish. There have been plenty of times around the world when we haven't minded paying over the odds because we are seen as 'rich' foreign tourists in a poor area; in this case it was the (clearly loaded) father of the family who was chiseling us, not the driver. By now, most of the other cars had left, so in a moment of theatricality – while Jamie continued his discussions – I got out and removed my case from the roof. I found a driver who agreed to take us door to door for 1500Rs, the going rate for a private taxi. This was enough of a spur for the original driver to instantly find a couple more passengers. The problem was solved. As we drove out of the station the taxi driver glowered at me; I felt a pang of guilt for using him to score points in our negotiation.
One mile higher
We left the plains and wound our way upwards into the Himalaya, the driver gunning our Jeep round every blind hairpin bend. Although it was crowded, we were glad to be travelling along the pot-holed roads in a nicely sprung 4WD, rather than a knackered old taxi. Jewel and pastel coloured houses grew out of the mountains on either side of us, colourful bells, blooms and racemes shattering the ubiquitous green of the forest. Roses of every colour and shape, hydrangeas, geraniums and other herbaceous border flowers crowded the pots in the windows and frontages. This area of the mountains is famous for its rhododendrons, with the flowers at their most dazzling in April. As we climbed higher the temperature dropped, reminiscent of an English spring.
The narrow gauge track of the Unesco World Heritage Darjeeling Railway criss-crossed the road, snaking its way towards the same destination as us. We stopped to watch the clanking steam train huff and puff its way past us.
Town in the clouds
Darjeeling is a jumble of British Raj architecture, modern concrete boxes, shacks and tiny lanes. It was teeming with people when we were unceremoniously dumped in the centre. We made some space on the heaving road for our bags and weary bodies and asked around for directions to our hotel. We didn't fancy traipsing through the dank lanes trying to find the entrance, so went for broke and took a taxi to the front door.
The Dekeling Homestay Hotel is situated in the midst of the hubbub. We climbed the steep steps, past a landing, through the wooden reception, up again to the sitting room and finally up another flight of narrow stairs to the top floor. The din by now had receded. The view from our corner room gave us our first high view of the Himalaya: one window faced two kilometres down into the valley, and the other faced north west, across town to the Kanchenjunga massif. India's highest mountain (the third highest peak in the world) wasn't playing ball, and hid itself behind the clouds.
Is this still India?
That afternoon we took a walk in what felt like a new country: the language had changed from Hindi to Nepali, with interesting tribal dialects and languages too; the influence of Tibet and China manifested itself in the almond eyes and straight black hair of the people. Some women wore an apron-like national dress, but many were in western clothes. We saw no sarees, and the only salwar kameezes in evidence were worn by Indian tourists. The local people were quiet and contained; it seemed the incessant chatter we had become used to in the rest of India was coming from the domestic tourists.
Cold and travel weary by 5pm, we stumbled across Joey's pub. It turned out to be a bit of a tourist landmark, but with its cosy bar, ramshackle tables and faded posters it felt immediately like home. Pretty soon our table was filled with beer, cheap whiskey and playing cards. Lovely. The barman ordered a take away for us, and tasty noodles (which we came to learn are the staple of mountain cuisine) soon turned up. Beating Jamie at cards in the bar, and again back at the hotel, was a sure sign that he was 'tired'. So we went to bed early, and slept for twelve and a half hours under the eaves of the world.
For more tales have a look at www.lizcleere.com
Dekeling Hotel
51 Gandhi Road
Darjeeling - 734101
West Bengal
INDIA
Phone : 91-354-2254159/2253298
Mobile : 91-09434462408 / 09679734048
Fax : 91-354-2253298
Email : dekeling@sify.com
norbu@dekeling.com
Central Park in Manhattan and Prospect Park in Brooklyn both have small zoos, but the real NYC zoo in wayyy uptown in the Bronx. (And no, you won't get mugged if you visit.) The Bronx Zoo is the largest urban zoo in the U.S. with some 265 sprawling acres. Go on a sunny day when you can take in all the different indoor and outdoor exhibits. If you're up for it, you can ride a camel. There's also a monorail through the park if you're tired of walking. General admission is normally $16 for adults and $12 for children. But if you go on Wednesday, you can pay what you wish. The Bronx Zoo is open weekdays from 10-5 and until 5:30 on weekends. To get there, take the 2 or 5 trains to East Tremont Ave/West Farms Square. Rowr!
www.bronxzoo.com/
2300 Southern Blvd, Bronx, NY, United States
+1 718 220 5103
Google map: bit.ly/ojJNMD
* Amanda is our Been there local for New York. You can check out her page here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/new-york-local-amanda-green.jsp and her own NYC blog here: www.noisiestpassenger.com/
The Toronto Islands are a chain of small islands, located a mere 15-minutes ferry ride from the
city centre.
I love taking the ferry over on a hot summer day; the wind blowing in my face; the gentle rocking
motion of the waves, the sounds of the birds, and the view of the islands in the distance, all offer a wonderful respite form the city. The islands are a great getaway.
The main island is home to the Centreville Amusement Park and a petting zoo. With over 600 acres of parkland, there are various rides and attractions for families with children. Also on
Centre Island is the Franklin Children’s Garden, based on stories by Franklin the Turtle, it is an
interactive garden where kids can participate in gardening and storytelling.
I like to head over to Ward’s and Algonquin Islands, where there are about 250 residential
homes, all very different from each other. From the Victorian to the eclectic, with sizes ranging
from estates to toolsheds, some of the homes are conservative, while others boast pink shutters with purple trim, brightly coloured doors, one even has flowers sprouting out of a toilet bowl on the front lawn.
And there’s Hanlan’s Point Beach, well-known to nudists in Toronto, where clothing is optional.
All of these islands are connected to the mainland by several ferry services.
Once on the islands, you can rent a bicycle or a canoe, take a leisurely walk through the
gardens, or even have a picnic.
www.toronto.ca/parks/island/index.htm
Via Ferrydocks at 9 Queen’s Quay West
+ 1 416 397 2626
Google map: bit.ly/oT2iiI
This is a good all round family experience. They have lots of animals from around the world and tonnes of experiences to engage in.
www.welshmountainzoo.org/zoo/eng/home.html
Colwyn Bay, Clwyd, North Wales, LL28 5UY
+44 (0)1492 532 938
Google map: bit.ly/g0d6DL
Chester is a great place for any family to spend a day, or even a few days. It is easy to reach and there are many family activities in and around the city.
Chester Zoo is just five minutes drive from the city centre and makes for a great day out. It is one of the best zoo's I’ve visited in Europe with many large enclosures and a sky train that allows you to view many of the animals from a unique perspective. Tip: Arrive early - the zoo is pretty big and can easily fill the whole day to see everything.
Staying on the animal theme, the Blue Planet Aquarium is about 10 minutes drive from the city centre. This is one of the largest aquariums in the UK and has two amazing underwater tunnel experiences. This is a great idea for any ‘wet’ days as it is all inside!
The Aquarium is located along side the Cheshire Oaks retail park, with lots of restaurants and a huge cinema to keep you entertained well into the night. Tip: this is also a great place to get some credit-crunch retail therapy underway, with many designer brands and hugely discounted prices – stock up your summer wardrobe.
For a more historical day out, you can explore the roman side of Chester. You can take a walk around the original city walls, taking in many of the sights of the city and views across north Wales. Stop off at some of the small shops and restaurants on the two-mile round trip. There is also the cathedral, Roman amphitheatre and many historical buildings in the city centre, including the original two-level medieval high streets. If you looking for a more relaxing day, try a ‘Roman High-Tea’ cruise along the canals (pick up the boat from next to the Mill Hotel). Tip: you can get a great (free) map from the city tourist office in the centre of town which highlights many of the historical buildings in the city and walking routes to take.
For a more relaxed day you should head down the small hill to the banks of the river Dee (also on the wall walk), where you can sit in riverside pubs and cafes enjoying the views, or take a relaxing river cruise on one of the river boats.
www.visitchester.com/
www.chesterzoo.org/
Upton-by-Chester, Chester, CH2 1LH
+44(0)1244 380280
Google map: bit.ly/dQCALy
Blue Planet Aquarium
Longlooms Road, Ellesmere Port CH65 9LF
+44(0)151 357 8804
Google map: bit.ly/h1Rheh
Blackpool is not just the Tower, Pleasure Beach and Golden Mile. Inland it is home to the large Stanley Park which, with the neighbouring attractions, can provide plenty of variety for a family day out without getting sand in your sandwiches! The park itself has a large boating lake, children’s playground, cafe along with the usual amenities that you would find in any good park. The bonus here is the park’s neighbours: the model village and the zoo. The model village has a large variety of models, depicting a variety of scenes from all over Britain. The zoo is the real highlight – not just being home to a wide range of animals in attractive enclosure – but visitors can also explore the world of prehistoric creatures on a dinosaur safari.
www.blackpool.gov.uk (use the a-z or search facility)
www.blackpoolzoo.org.uk
www.blackpoolmodelvillage.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/34lq8by
In a city that may not seem to be the most obvious family-friendly destination, Prague's zoo is a welcome respite from the obligatory historical and cultural sightseeing for visitors with young children.It houses animals from all over the world, including big cats, gorillas and elephants, and there is also a children's zoo and play area for the little ones. If you still have the time and energy to spare, check out the splendid Troja castle and gardens over the road.
Well worth a trip out of the city centre.
U Trojského zámku 3/120,
171 00 Praha 7.
www.zoopraha.cz/en
(+420) 296 112 230
Take bus 112 from Nádraží Holešvice metro station.
Located between Narbonne and Perpignan, in the heart of French Catalonia, hides this outstanding African Safari Park. The promotional material is naff, and it is approached via an unpromising dusty side road, but once inside the African adventure begins immediately (directly above where we parked our car there were pelicans nesting). The park is split into two sections, the first to explore on foot, where the favourites were elephants, chimpanzees, giraffes, and alligators. Some seen up close, and others through use of telescopes dotted around the park, as the size of some enclosures are vast. The second, and potentially more exciting section is the series of enclosures accessed by car. Rhinos, zebra, bears, and the stars of the show, the lions, can be seen up close and (almost too) personal. Beware of the ostriches! The whole family agreed that this was the best day of the holiday last summer.
www.reserveafricainesigean.fr
Nearest station Narbonne (15km)
The trip takes about 3 ½-4 hours; €26 adults/€20 children.
Google map: tinyurl.com/3yg8mpp
It is wonderful to have such a beautiful zoo so close to the city centre. The facilities for the animals is great and you don't get that depressed feeling you often get when visiting zoos. A cable car ride takes you up to the hill which provides the setting for the lion and tiger enclosures and also gives you great views over Pretoria. A few historic monuments are also scattered throughout the gardens. Outside is a small African craft market. A great way to spend a day with kids.
www.zoo.ac.za
232 Boom St, Box 754, Pretoria, 0001, South Africa
Google map: tinyurl.com/ygaz672
Even though locals refer to it as Jersey Zoo, this is a misnomer. They basically breed endangered animals in the wild and return them to captivity. I could have watched the monkeys and gorillas all day!
For a free zoo it's got a great selection of animals - if you're in town with kids, they will love it.
www.lpzoo.org
Just north of downtown, catch a number of buses from Watertower Place or walk along the riverfront.
If you have a couple of hours to spare one evening after a hard day of conferencing why not visit the world's first Night Safari at Singapore Zoo? You get to explore wildlife in a tropical jungle at night! And in case you're thinking zoo=bad, think again. Singapore Zoo is a model of the 'open zoo' concept. The animals are kept in spacious, landscaped enclosures, separated from the visitors by dry or wet moats. It's magical.
www.nightsafari.com.sg
Open 7.30pm till midnight with last admissions at 11pm. Hop on a bus or take a taxi - 30 mins from city centre.
If you're visiting Toulon, don't miss a visit to Mt Faron. Take the bus to the departure point, then you get up the mountain by means of an exhilarating, if slightly terrifying, cable car ride - the highest cable car I'd ever travelled in, it felt like being in an aircraft!
Once up the top, there's miles and miles of wooded paths to explore, a military museum, spectacular views across Toulon and out to sea, a few cafes, and a weird zoo, which I'd probably give a miss next time. We stupidly went in the middle of the day so most of the animals were asleep (either that or they'd been replaced with stuffed toys), so it might be better in the mornings, but it wasn't anything to write home about.
The walks around the top of the mountain were great though, highly recommended!
You can buy combination bus/cable car tickets from the tourist office on the waterfront in the centre of town. These are cheaper than paying for the bus and cable car separately, and the bus stop is just a few hundred yards from the tourist office.
Newly opened zoo which tries hard to present itself as ecologically sound and involved in saving species. It's a taxi ride away in the west of Valencia. Children will love being really close to the animals - and it will be even better once the monkeys are there. Rather pricey at € 20/adult.
Take a taxi which will cost under €10.
I visited the biggest oceanarium in the world. You don't need to love fishing or a nature-freak to enjoy this. It is a great experience. There are four biotypes, each recreating one of the world’s coastal habitats. They're located in the four corner towers which encircle the central aquarium.
Together they constitute a representative set of ocean environments. And I will never forget how cute a baby sea otter can be.
Esplanada D.Carlos I
Lisbon
www.oceanario.pt/
Rome's zoo is being gradually improved and has been renamed the Bioparco. A greater emphasis is now being placed on its ecological and environmental credentials. I visited it on a Wednesday afternoon. Apart from three Russians who asked me for directions to the exit, I was the only visitor. I think the animals were glad to see me. If you like wolves there are lots here. Very wolfish and sleek. Apart from its intrinsic merits, it's one of the few places in Rome where you can get away from the crowds.
Viale del Giardino Zoologico. Trams 3 and 19, plus a short walk.
Haven for injured and abandoned Koalas. Great place to see koalas and to experience their unique pong.
Friendly and well informed staff will be happy to tell you all you need to know. Great family day out a few minutes from Brisbane.
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary
Jesmond Road,
Fig Tree Pocket
Qld 4069, AUSTRALIA
www.koala.net/index.htm
Google map: tinyurl.com/m3gjyq
On the mainland, Pattaya offers a range of amusement parks, gardens, and theme parks. Nong Nooch Tropical Gardens although recently scandalised by the Beeb for their treatment of elephants is worth a visit, just don’t support the elephant rides. Elephant village is similarly not to be supported.
Pattaya Park is a Water World amusement park that offers all the usual water rides plus a revolving restaurant and some hair-raising ways of getting up there and back down.
Mini Siam is a miniature tour of Thailand - full of busloads of tourists with a MacDonald’s at the entrance.
Million year-old Stone Park has beautiful gardens - feed the 5ft long catfish! And cringe at the abysmal treatment of tigers and crocodiles.
Further afield is Sri Racha tiger Zoo (to be avoided at all costs), and Kao Keow Open Zoo, a refreshing change from the usual callous way animals are treated in Thailand. There is also the Water World Aquarium on Sukumvit Rd. Any hotel or travel shop will arrange to take you there.
Nong Nooch Tropical Gardens
www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com
Pattaya Park
Jomtien Beach, www.pattayapark.com
Mini Siam
Sukhumvit Road
Million Years Stone Park
www.thaistonepark.org/
We like to go to Colchester Zoo. We really love the baby elephants. It's a nice zoo because the enclosures are bigger than other zoos. Feeding the elephants is fun; they like to eat carrots and apples. There are lots of breeds of animals like leopards, monkeys and zeedonks. There is a playground with a cool climbing frame. We like to take a picnic which we share with our cousins George and Lucas.
From Robin Odell (age 9) and Lucy Odell (age 6).
Go to the zoo and see the animals ..and get up close with the animals. After closing time, "Roar 'n' Snore' starts with dinner followed by a nightime guided tour of the zoo. You get to explore the zoo as night falls and see the zoo's nightlife...animals whose activities start at dusk. Supper follows..before you bed down for the night...in your tent in the middle of the zoo.
I might add, nightime at the zoo is NOISY!
Breakfast is served next morning before more walks around the zoo.
This is simply a wonderful activity that has to be experienced.
For adults and families with children 7+
Melbourne Zoo
Elliot Ave, Parkville
Melbourne Zoo is located only minutes north from the city centre, within Royal Park. Car parking is available or visitors can take the tram or train to reach the Zoo. Trains run from Flinders Street Station stopping at Melbourne Zoo's own Royal Park Station
www.zoo.org.au/melbourne/roarnsnore.htm
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