The DMZ Cafe runs tours of the former Demilitarised Zone. You can book similar tours in Hue. But the DMZ Cafe has an advantage in the shape of Mr Dien - a guide who worked for the US government as a translator prior to the end of the war in 1975.

Although tours from Hue are easier to book, you can call DMZ Cafe on Mob: 09851 97538 and book a tour, then just arrange a bus up to Dong Ha from Hue. Buses leave Hue around 06:00 and get to Dong Ha at 08:00, in plenty of time. DMZ Cafe is right in the centre of Dong Ha, about 50m south on Route 1 from where the buses stop. They will also pick you up from the night train from Hanoi.

Mr Dien lived through "interesting times", as the Chinese say. It was a fascinating day, and we won't forget it.

DMZ Cafe, 88 Le Duan St, Dong Ha
Mr Dien Mob: 09851 97538
dmzcafedh@yahoo.com

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A lovely hotel with super-friendly, English-speaking staff and a great design. Staff will pick you up from the bus and help you arrange tours and cooking courses.

Free wifi, and a beautiful, chilled-out garden, too. Easily the best hotel in our three weeks of travelling around Vietnam.

thanhxuanhotel@dng.vnn.vn

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