The area a few miles west of the attractive World Heritage city of Evora (70 mls SE of Lisbon) is well worth a visit for its amazing megalithic sites – precursors of the better-known ones in Brittany and the United Kingdom. Best of all is Os Almendres, where 92 stones are spread over a sloping hillside; it's the Iberian peninsula's largest and most impressive stone circle. Nearby is a single standing stone (Menhir) and in the same area are caves that were lived in 50,000 years ago, complete with rock art (Grutas do Escoural), and a large dolmen, or burial chamber, the Anta Grande de Zambujeiro. All are hidden away down tracks in this remote unspoiled countryside, adding to the sense of isolation and magic. Further south there are also good remains of Roman villas at São Cucufate, and at Pisoes west of Beja.

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São Martinho is a relaxed family resort on a lovely sandy enclosed bay. It has a glass lift up to a viewpoint, a quaint fisherman's chapel, a daily market, plenty of restaurants, an elegant Casa da Chá (tearoom) in the Palace do Capitão Hotel and a boardwalk around the bay to the unspoilt village of Salir do Porto, where there is a new open air pool and good walks on the headland overlooking the Atlantic. It's also near the quaint walled town of Óbidos and the old spa town of Caldas da Rainha. Get away from the tourists and enjoy authentic Portugal!

50 miles north of Lisbon off junction 20 on the A8 motorway.
Google map: bit.ly/eDhEcv

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This is a very civilised restaurant in a converted wine cellar. Quiet, not flashy or pretentious, simply good service and good food. Not too lengthy or elaborate menu, but a high standard and well presented. Medium to high price.

Angels 8; tel 933 022 680

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Restaurant run by an expatriate Frenchman. Lovely courtyard setting, very professional service by waiters in white gloves and superb food and wine. One of our best meals ever, and well worth the £90 for two as a lovely dining experience.

47 Derb Zaouia, Bab Doukkal (in an alley opposite the Culture delegation building in Rue Fatima). Tel 044-387040

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