It’s true that Athens should no longer be a short stay destination, but if circumstances dictate it, I recommend the following route (only because it should at least allow you to get a first impression of the diverse faces/ juxtapositions of the city).

Start early in the morning with a visit to Kolonaki square. Watch the posh (and wannabe posh) people walk by while having a coffee/breakfast in one of the numerous - though slightly overpriced- cafes.

Then again, if you'd prefer something more down to earth, rather bohemian, choose to start your day by visiting Exarheia, a neighbourhood right next to Kolonaki. Have a stroll round the nearby streets and then head towards Panepistimiou Avenue, for a short stop at the Hellenic Academy and the other nearby buildings of architectural interest.

From Panepistimiou Avenue, head towards Syntagma, to see the Greek parliament, and then keep walking down Ermou Street until you reach Monastiraki. Pass Monastiraki Square and then head towards Plaka, for a light lunch/drink in one of the kafeneia/tavernas (kafeneio Dioskuroi is highly recommended).

Take a deep breath and then start walking up the hill, for a visit to the Acropolis. On the way back, walk round Plaka for a bit longer, or visit other very interesting areas, which are all a short distance away, such as Thission, Psiri, Athens Central Market or Gazi.

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One of the very first bars to open in the up and coming area of Gazi, Nipiagogeio (as its name suggests) used to be a kindergarten, before it turned into one of the most renowned freestyle bars in Athens. Decoration still keeps a kindergarten theme, particularly in the bar's cosy courtyard (open in summer). People are generally unpretentious and in the mood for dancing, whatever is on offer by the guest DJ.

8, Kleanthous Street and Elasidon, Gazi;
tel: 210 345 8534

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Arguably not the best choice amongst hundreds of reasonably priced tavernas, mezedopoleia, souvlakeries and restaurants, but this is why you may (be pleased to) find it hard to spot a McDonalds. Expect to get a much more culturally-sensitive and healthier range of choices than what you would normally expect from a fast food chain.

In nearly every neighbourhood
www.goodys.com/page/

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A long-established summer trend. Buy a pair of handcrafted, ancient Greek-inspired sandals and dare to impress. You can't go wrong by visiting Melissinos's new shop (by far the most popular sandal maker) in Psiri.

Agias Theklas 2, Psiri.
Tel: 00 30 210 321 9247
www.melissinos-art.com

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The Ouzo brand that Greeks prefer but nearly impossible to find abroad.

Any supermarket, off-license.

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One the must-see hip bars in psiri, with an upstairs dance club and flavoursome international dishes. Renowned for its eclectic, always in the mood for dancing crowd and arguably the nicest courtyard one can find in the middle of town.

65 Evripidou street, psiri
Tel: 0030 210 3310907

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This bar is set in the antiques market and actually uses old furniture for its clients (some of the hippest people), in a dimly-lit atmosphere. Now and then, you can find some interesting art exhibitions or projections on the wall. In the summer, great for seating outside.

3 Avissinias Sq, Monastiraki
Tel: 0030 210 3246446

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If you are lucky to know a local, or daring enough to drive yourself, it's definitely worth visiting Hymettos mountain, particularly its north-east side (drive up from the Katehaki or Papagou exits of the ring road - Attiki odos). Discover a Byzantine church, a traditional monastery and other archaeological sites of interest, have a drink in a cafe nearly hidden between the trees, enjoy some of the greatest panoramic views of Athens, do the bike or footpaths, or check for events/activities taking place throughout the year. Hymettos is also renowned for its marble and thyme honey, as well as for being Greece's most crazy mountain, (ie "trelos" or "trelovouno" in Greek) probably because of its propensity to change colour under shifting sunlight.

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One thing that Athenians claim to do best and a must-try experience for anyone who visits the city between May-September. There are dozens of great open-air cinemas from which to choose, but mostly because of a privileged location and quality of sound, I would recommend Aegli cinema, in Zappion Gardens.

Zappion Gardens, 105 57 Athens, (+30) 210 3369369, (+30) 210 3369370, (+30) 210 3369300
www.aeglizappiou.gr/Cinema.html

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Arguably the ultimate place for people watching, both in the winter and summer. This is where everybody walks past before settling in one of the numerous bars/clubs in Psiri, or stops for a first drink (traditionally cheap to cater for the students), and forgets what the plan is for the rest of the evening. A major mid-week attraction for Athenians that never go to sleep. Amongst the old favourites, are Discokafeneio and Rebeka.

Miaouli Street, Psiri.

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