Everything about Key West is so laid back that it feels more Caribbean than Floridian. The formerly quaint and peaceful Duval Street, now the main tourist drag, has been spoiled in recent years by a proliferation of T-shirt and tacky gift shops, and the whole town can get a little overpowering, particularly in the mornings, when hordes of cruise ship passengers disembark for the day, but late afternoons and evenings are fun.

Mallory Square has free entertainment at sunset every night (check out the bonkers French guy and his performing cats).

Sloppy Joe's and Captain Tony's both claim to be the favoured watering holes of the town's most famous former resident, Ernest Hemingway, and are both worth a visit.

More cultured visitors should look to the Audubon House, Hemingway's house (including the famous six-toed cats) and the Little White House, one-time president Harry S Truman's former residence.

160 miles from Miami at the end of US1 (Mile Marker 0);
www.fla-keys.com/keywest

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The drive down US1 towards Key West has to be one of America's most scenic, especially if you hire a convertible on a sunny day, and you're the passenger. The bridges over the water afford you some spectacular views.

You can do Key West and back in a day from Miami, but it's a long day.

If you've more time, make a day or two of it in Key West (see separate posting) and if you don't, you can get a flavour of what the laid-back Keys are all about (fishing, diving, snorkelling, seafood etc) by heading for Key Largo and/or Islamoroda towards the top of the island chain.

The John Pennekamp State Park on Key Largo has many facilities, including a glass-bottom boat tour if you don't fancy getting wet.

Follow the US1 south from Miami, it runs all the way down to Key West (160 miles away). Key Largo is 58 miles from Miami, Islamoroda 76 miles; Telephone 305-451-6300 for boat tour reservations, 305-451-1202 general information; www.pennekamppark.com

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The News Cafe is one of the most popular cafe-restaurant-bars on South Beach. It's open 24-hours and its all-day (and all-night) breakfast is excellent value.

Lots of people use it as a meeting point before a night on the town.

There's also a shop that sells newspapers from many different countries.

Ocean Drive (on corner of 8th Street)
www.newscafe.com/

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Stylish waterfront shopping, eating and entertainment complex next to Bayfront Park. Some excellent restaurants, especially seafood, and classy individual shops and boutiques alongside some familiar big-chain favourites (Gap, Disney Store etc). There’s live entertainment most afternoons and evenings.

Bayside is also home to a number of boat tour operators, if you want a close-up view of the homes of Miami's rich and famous.

Next to AA Arena (where the Miami Heat play) on US1;
www.baysidemarketplace.com

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Unmissable if you're a gardener, or just appreciate some decent scenery. Tropical plants abound in 83 acres of botanic gardens, greenhouses etc. It's home to some of the largest collections of palms, vines and other exotic and not-so-exotic trees, flowers and plants in North America.

You can walk yourself round, take the free tram tour, or both.

Until May 31 2006, the grounds are home to a large and colourful collection of Dale Chihuly glass sculptures, which really light up the scenery. (He had a similar scattered exhibition at Kew Gardens before Christmas - I've seen both and the Fairchild collection is twice as impressive).

10901 Old Cutler Road, Coral Gables 33156 (less than 20 minutes in the car, a few miles south of downtown Miami); tel: 305 667 1651; Admission $20 (OAPs $15, kids $10); www.fairchildgarden.org

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