BA is bursting with cafes and confiterias, a number of which are now firmly on the tourist track. If you would like to try something a little more 'locale', check out Confiteria Las Violetas, a few stops west on the Subte (underground). It is a slice of real BA 'confiteria culture' with its grand tables, fine stained-glass windows, traditional service, not to mention a rather tempting menu - particularly for those with a sweet tooth.

Rivadavia 3899; nearest undergorund: Castro Barros;
tel: 00 61 4958 7387

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I've visited BA six times, and this is one of the nicest hotels I have stayed in. It's made up of two "sausage houses" which have been refurbished, to provide a friendly, calming ambience - ideal afer an exhausting day of looking around the city. Nice "homely" breakfasts too. The bars, restaurants and parks of Palermo are moments away; the subte (subway) or a bus will get you into the city centre.

Address: Malabia 1555, Palermo Viejo
Tel and fax: (+54 11) 4833 2410
www.malabiahouse.com.ar

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The cemetery at Recoleta rightly draws the crowds, but the far larger necropolis at Chacarita is fascinating. It was created as a result of the city's yellow fever epidemic in 1871. Although it is officially for "ordinary people", you can see the vaults of such former icons as tango great Carlos Gardel and former president Juan Domingo Peron (his wife Evita, paradoxically, is over at Recoleta).

Two minutes' walk from Federico Lacroze underground station or "subte".

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Of course you should eat the beef whilst in Buenos Aires, but at some point you might seek something a little different. If so, try Filo, an Italian restaurant, right in the heart of the city, by Plaza San Martin. The pizzas are divine, the wine sublime, and the tiramisu is the best in the southern hemisphere. There's even a tasteful gallery in the basement.

Address: San Martin, 975
Tel: 011 4311 0312
www.filo-ristorante.com

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