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A lovely wine bar. Not being much of a connoisseur of wines, I can only say that there is an extensive list. For me the food is by far the most important! There is a vast choice of dishes and the menu interestingly (for this neck of the woods) indicates vegetarian options (the online one doesn't really do it justice). My favourite dish was marinated tuna on a bed of seaweed, with wasabi dressing. Tapas are a little more expensive than in bog-standard bars, but are quite generous portions. Some patience needed with waiters when bar is busy. I am eager to return to try more of their delicious food.
www.vineriasantelmo.com/
Paseo de Catalina de Ribera, 4 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 41 06 00
Google map: bit.ly/JrgVoY
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Random could be used to describe this venue (but good random). Walking in through the large entrance way you are confronted with an open patio space and many doors. Behind each is a different type of music - flamenquito, drum'n'bass, reggae- and atmosphere. I found myself in a tiny bar, with cheap beers served in plastic cups, bopping along to Brazilian rhythms.
From research, I have discovered that it is also a crafts centre grouping together the handiwork of many artists (silk, ceramics, puppets, glassware, etc).
Will definitely be popping by there again soon!
Calle de Castellar, 52 41003 Sevilla (NOT Castelar - I made that mistake!!)
Google map: bit.ly/J68PDs
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
A small florist/garden centre. The mar de flores family-run store is literally on their doorstep: they have opened their front garden to all who wish to peruse the collection of plants they have on offer. All plants are interestingly presented: in shoes, bird cages, teacups, handbags and kettles. Would make the perfect gift for the eco-conscious. Pick up a ready crafted gift, or request a tailor-made arrangement.
Alameda de Hercules, 73
+34(0)954374685
Google map: bit.ly/yTSeRt
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
You couldn't find a more intriguing watering hole than Bar Garlochí. It all starts with its name, which means heart in Gypsy language. The interior is lavish, chintzy and holy all at once. It is definitely heavy on the eyes: there are figures of the Virgin Mary and images of Christ in every corner. The bar is a popular haunt for the gay community and cheesy 70s Spanish tunes add to the atmosphere. Drinks are quite pricey though: €3 for a botellín (bottle of beer). It's quite a popular tourist spot as it has featured heavily in the press over the years and boasts that it serves 'Agua de Sevilla' in the doorway.
Calle Garlochi, 26, 41004, Seville
Google map: bit.ly/yy3D3Q
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Seville city centre has a wealth of food establishments, with plenty of choice between tapas bars and international dishes. However, sometimes a trip to a small town can uncover little gems. Da Frá is a beautifully decorated Italian restaurant. Very cosy, and with a family feel - perfect for a winter's evening with an enormous log-fire in the middle of the venue. It has a wide selection of anti-pasti/insalatas, pasta and pizza, meat and risotto but not too much to make you dizzy. All reasonably priced and generous portions. Homemade puddings too!
www.dafrasevilla.com
Calle Martires de la Iglesia, S/N, 41807 Espartinas
Google map: bit.ly/zFRcqK
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Fed up of Cruzcampo (not many people out of Seville are actually that fond of it) then this is the best place to visit. It has an extensive menu of beers, ales, bitters, stouts from all over the world (hence the name). And to ensure that the Morte Subite (€2.95) doesn't take such effect there are also several tapas to choose from, including German sausage and sauerkraut.
www.cerveceriainternacional.com/
C/ GAMAZO, 3 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 954 211 717
Google map: bit.ly/A8l76q
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
A minimalist wine-bar style establishment in Utrera, a small town some 30 minutes away from Seville. A good range of hot and cold gastro-tapas. A little more expensive than most places, but definitely worth the few cents more. All dishes come beautifully and innovatively presented. Being a drab winter day, I asked for the 'pucherito expreso' (€3.90), and what a spectacle! Puchero is a broth made of various meat-types. It is normally served as a broth with rice or chickpeas and the meat is served as a side, all mushed together and eaten with bread, called 'pringá' (or pringada). My pucherito expresso was served to me from a tiny cafetiere. The waitress poured it for me into a bowl, garnished with a quail egg, and the pringá was in the bottom half of the instrument.
www.besanatapas.com/
C/ Niño Perdido, 1 41710 Utrera
+34 955 86 38 04
Google map: bit.ly/xujL5Z
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
A glamorous live flamenco venue frequented by many of Seville's celebs, such as Vicky Martín Berrocal, the famous flamenco dress designer. Upon entering the sala, her work is on show, a lavish red long-trained dress, and the walls adorned with black-and-white photography of flamenco greats such as Lola Flores and Camarón. The sala is minimalist, and was full of suave, young, beautiful people. A live band played a mixture of flamenquito (pop/flamenco), sevillanas and salsa, and the atmosphere was enjoyable and lively. Drinks are a little more pricey than other venues at €8 a copa (spirit and mixer).
Calle Castilla, 137
Google map: bit.ly/vS2oId
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Christmas has finally arrived in Seville. It is not as sparkly or 'in your face' as a British Christmas scene but is definitely here, with flamenco-style villancicos (carols) are being played from the stands at the Feria del Belén.
It may seem excessive having a whole market dedicated to the nativity scene, but it is here where they do not do things by halves. The feria starts mid November until 23 December, and its 20-odd stands have a range of hand-crafted figurines, buildings, bridges, even a pyramid if you wish. Their nativity scene does not just include the stable and baby Jesus in a crib: it extends to the mountains, the farmlands, rivers, ponds and often proudly takes up a large table in Spanish families' houses.
This year (2011) the market takes place alongside the Archivos de Indias and the Cathedral. Other years it can be found at the Plaza de San Francisco next to the Ayuntamiento.
Google map: bit.ly/vG6xW6
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
After having lived in Seville for two years, I am a little embarrassed that there are many attractions I have yet to visit. This was the case of the Museo de Baile Flamenco (Museum of flamenco dance). I knew where it was and had wandered past peering in many a time when passing by with visitors. When I was invited to take a tour, I didn't know what to expect. I had a stereotypical prejudgement in mind: museums are boring and require a lot of reading and concentration.
I was wrong.
Before even stepping foot in the museum reception, you are already welcomed by faint flamenco rhythms and the sound 'pa-tah, pa-tah, pa-tah'. On the way to the museum (it's located on the 1st floor), you pass the light and airy patio where top-notch performances take place every evening. It was from here that the sounds of taconeo were being produced, although not in the form of a spectacular show on the centre stage, but basic steps from flamenco fledglings in the glass-paned dance studio. Visitors are encouraged to take a pew and observe, attempt to comprehend the complexity involved with mastering this art form, so that they are able to really appreciate how long it took the novice to perfect just one step when watching the professional show.
The museum itself is relatively new, and was inaugurated in 2006, born of the initiative of Cristina Hoyos, an acclaimed Sevillana flamenco dancer and actress, who has had a great influence on the rise of this artform. She wanted to bring flamenco dance closer to the world, to make people understand that it is one of the three fundamental pillars that support flamenco: the other two being cante (singing) and toque (guitar playing). Only last year, flamenco was declared as being of intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, and Crisitina Hoyos and this wonderful museum may have had something to do with that! This is the only museum in the world, to date, to solely be dedicated to flamenco dance.
It provides a perfect introduction for any visitor to this magical world (or for Andalusian visitors to be reminded of its beginnings). Although I have attempted to describe the different flamenco palos in the past, I learnt from the tour that many stones were surely left unturned. The first floor of the Museo del Baile Flamenco uses a hands-on high tech approach to explaining the origins, (i.e., where castanets, hand or hip movements were from) and the variety of palos (flamenco styles), through videos and interactive screens, available in many languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Chinese and Japanese). Flamenco is an emotive dance, and depending on the palo different feelings can be portrayed: these videos perfectly demonstrate this with buzz words flashing up alongside. Furthermore, visitors can read more information, listen and watch using the touch-screen displays. This floor also describes how flamenco came into the spotlight, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. You can stand under the 'sound showers' and experience a sensory overload: hear flamenco melodies, see footage from years bygone - when flamenco started to take centre stage - and read famous flamenco quotes from flamenco-inspired works such as Carmen.
Another room puts flamenco costume in the spotlight, using interactive screens to explain where different items came from and how they were incorporated into dance. Last but not least on this floor, is a room consisting entirely of video walls, showing a performance choreographed specifically for the museum by Cristina Hoyos.
The museum also has an impressive photography and art collection, including images of Cristina Hoyo and her dance company, reminiscing of their ‘golden years’. Contemporary art works from up-and-coming artists, Spanish and international bring give the museum bring the art to the modern day. The exhibition rooms, as well as the well-preserved 18th century basement, are also used for percussion lessons and can be hired out for private events or conferences.
After discovering so much about the art of flamenco, it really made me appreciate the amazing live performance that same the evening. Four artists: two bailaores dancers (Lola Jaramillo and Jesús Herrera), a tocaor guitarist (Andrés Martínez) and a cantaor singer (Trini) took to the stage to bring to life all that was learnt from the museum. Here though, you could feel the flamenco and understand the emotions involved in the various palos. You could feel the vibration from the taconazos on the wooden tablao, and the swish of air as the train from Lola's traje swished inches past your face. Experience the joyfulness of bulerías and heart-felt wails of a saeta. I had seen many shows in free bars, the Bienal and touristy tabloas and I can guarantee that this show will remain present in my memory for much time to come. All of the performers stood out for me, but never had I seen a bailaora with such stage presence – maybe because I had never seen one master dancing with a mantoncillo and long-trained traje - it was astonishing.
This museum and show is a perfect introduction to flamenco for any visitor to Seville. It is located on C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, and is open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Entrance to the museum is: Adults - €10, Students and over 65s - €8, and Sevillanos and children - €6.
Shows are
Sunday to Thursday (45 mins): Adults - €15, Students and over 65s - €12, and Sevillanos and children - €10
Friday and Saturday (60 mins): Adults - €23, Students and over 65s - €20, and Sevillanos and children - €12
Packages are available to enter the museum and see a show:
Sunday to Thursday: Adults - €20, Students and over 65s - €15, Sevillanos and children - €12
Friday and Saturday: Adults - €28, Students and over 65s - €25, Sevillanos and children - €20
For a guided tour of the museum in English, visit on Mondays or Thursdays at 5 p.m.
www.museoflamenco.com
C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos 3
+34.954.34.03.11
Google map: bit.ly/ujcnsi
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
My Sevillana friend always swears by a certain Sevillano chain heladería. Then, I told her about this little place. If there is any place where you can taste Seville, then it is here. Joaquín Liria has created ice creams based on some of Seville's most prominent scents: springtime's crema de flor de azahar (cream of orange blossom) and dulce de romero (rosmary), and favourite sweets: dulce de palmera, crema de Torrijas (typical of Holy Week). There is even one that tastes of Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barameda - sherry flavour! For me it would be hard to choose a favourite: I love Dulce de Chirimoya (custard apple), which is only available towards the end of summer when the fruit is most flavoursome, and caramelly Dulce de pestiño, another sweet typical of Holy Week. There is a variety of sizes, available in scoops or little tubs (a 1-scoop cone is €2.20 and small tub €3.00). The heladería has gained press both nationally and internationally for its innovative creations, and even Great Britain's Rick Stein visited while filming his last series Rick Stein's Spain.
www.heladerialafiorentina.com
c/ Zaragoza, 16, 41001
+34 954 22 15 50
Google map: bit.ly/vfAUmd
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
A few months back a friend recommended me to go to Anselma's. She didn't really know how to direct me there and didn't tell me any more than that it had a good atmosphere. She assured me that anyone in the streets of Triana would know it, or her.
True to her word, a passer-by pointed us in the right direction, although upon arriving it still wasn't clear if we had reached our destination. The shutters were down and the mosaics above the door read 'Comestibles', not 'Casa Anselma'.
People were spilling out onto the road with a faint 'rociero' melody interrupted intermittently by loud outbursts of "vuelve a las 2, a las 2,'" "está a tope, a tope" ('come back at 2', 'its full"). The words were pouring out from a stout, black-clad woman in the entrance way, stopping the hoards from trying to squeeze in. It was not just her floral mantoncillo draped across her shoulders that made her appear a typical Andalusian woman -she was abrupt, loud and had plenty of guasa (wit): she was Anselma.
The crowds realised that there was no space for them and dispersed, heading to bars recommended by Anselma herself: “they sing as well as we do, but you must come back at 2”. My friend and I held tight and she eventually beckoned us on in.
The room was stuffy, packed with small gypsy-style hand painted tables and adorned with typical feria and Rocío paraphynalia. In the corner at the front was the choir, a coro rociero, a collective of people that sing hommage to the Virgen del Rocío and who go on pilgrimage every year. They were equipped with a percussion box and guitars, and not to forget the most important of instruments, their hands and voices! They performed upbeat bulerías and sevillanas to which a pair danced.
An hour into the show (at around 1 am) Anselma shouted across the audience "Stop dancing, I want to sing!" and she shimmied through the crowds to do what she knows best. It was clear that she was an experienced show woman: she joked, acted, and had a powerful copla voice.
Almost all of the people in the bar were Spanish: there were hen parties, and young groups of friends and couples. I would really recommend this bar to people that have knowledge of Spanish and the country's culture: the audience participated (singing along) at the end of the show, as Anselma belted out some classic Spanish tunes. However, without knowing a word of Spanish, I am sure that any guiri (foreigner) would be blown away by the atmosphere and Anselma's cheeky charm!
C/ Pagés del Corro, 49, 41010 TRIANA, Seville
+34 606 162 502
Google map: bit.ly/qxNlna
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
A really modern restaurant with an abundance of 'tapas de diseño'. In a very minimalist setting, the menu offers something for everyone's taste, pâté, mini salads, meat, fish and finger fancies. Tapas range from €2.75 - €3.75. Entering with a rumbly tummy is dangerous business, as you will want to try everything on the menu! A little pricier than your average tapas bar, but definitely worth every cent!
www.showdetapas.com/home/
There are several in Cádiz, but the one that I visited is:
Calle San Francisco, 3 Cádiz
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
If you're not going to be able to make Semana Santa (Holy Week) or don't want to face the crowds, to at least get a feel for it head to La Torre del Oro in the evening (8pm+) to spot the band practicing. No matter what time of year (even when the event has only just past) they are there trumpets-a-tooting, drums-a-banging.
Another spot is in the Maria Luisa Park, not too far from the Plaza de Espanya entrance.
Paseo Cristobal Colon S/N, 41001 Sevilla, Spain
+34 954 22 24 19
Google map: bit.ly/nUjWjR
The perfect safe haven in the hot summer months or rainy winter weekends (yes it does rain!!). The cinema is old-style, with good choice of refreshments and pop corn and several screens. All films are in their original versions with subtitles in Spanish.
Avenida Marques de Paradas, 16
www.hoycinema.com/cartelera/cines/Avenida-5-Cines-VO-UCC.htm
+34 954 29 30 25
Google map: bit.ly/rov2jh
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Literally meaning vegetable garden in Spanish, La Huerta, offers just that. Lots of veggie tapas - you can even find croquetas (croquettes) free of ham (choice of cauliflower or pesto). Tapas prices ranging between €2-3. Three tapas and 4 drinks (2 people) was about €20. Great summertime dining as plenty of outdoor seating and near other tapas bars (including the infamous Rinconcillo) if you wished to make a little tour of it.
Plaza Terceros 9, Seville, Spain
+34 655 270 079
Google map: bit.ly/ovIJK5
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Barrio: La Encarnación
A lovely bar/restaurant nestled in the Triana barrio. It offers a wide selection of international-influenced tapas, and a well-balanced variety of meat/fish/vegetable dishes. Friendly and attentive waiter service. Fancy food but relaxed atmosphere - a little pricey, but good quality (3 tapas and 2 drinks €28). Try the star dish "Arroz meloso con magret" - Risotto-style rice with duck.
www.puratasca.com
Numancia, 5, Triana 41010
+34954330680
A family-run chiringuito (beach-side bar). It is so hidden away it’s even pretty unknown to the locals too. From the slope on the way down, you wouldn’t imagine that it is an eating establishment: there’s nothing to indicate its restaurant status, no bells or whistles, like signs. It doesn't even have electricity, running on a generator. It simply is what it is, but it serves the freshest fish you can imagine and has a never-ending view of blue skies and sea. They do offer a menu with the dishes that are always served, for example, tomates aliñados (tomatoes with garlic, drenched in vinegar and olive oil), chips, fried eggs and green peppers. However, it’s always best to ask the owners what is available on the day, since it depends what the fisherman, father of the family, managed to bag in his net and bring back that morning. Be sure to try the choco (cuttlefish) – I can guarantee that it will be the biggest that you have ever set your eyes on. The coquinas (small clams) are yum too. And don't forget sardinas when they are in season (any month without "r" in Spanish).
It's a little tricky to get to. Either park up near the Playa Rocío campsite and trek down the sandy slope, or walk approx 2 km along the beach from Matalascañas. Open from April through summer.
Google map: bit.ly/ql4E39
Summer in Seville is all about staying cool in the day and enjoying the breeze in the evening. There is no better way to do this than to enjoy one of its many nightly events. Noches en los Jardines del Real Alcázar are are series of nightly concerts held in the Arab-style palace gardens. Choose from ancient medieval, classical or world music (even flamenco) and enjoy concerts in one of the most beautiful settings. Tickets can be bought from the Apeadero del Real Alcázar (Patio de Banderas) or via the Internet www.cajasol.es and cost €4 (€5 when purchased online).
www.actidea.es/nochesalcazar2011/
www.patronato-alcazarsevilla.es
Plaza Triunfo, S/N, 41004 Sevilla, Spain
+34 954 50 23 24
Google map: bit.ly/omtFyH
A fried fish restaurant. There are two parts to the restaurant, separated by a wide pathway. One sells cooked seafood by the kilo, and the other fried fish. You walk in, pick your number and choose from the delights before you. They pack it up for you in a plastic bag, and you make your way to one of the silver tables equipped with a little rubbish bin for you to dispose of the shells and skins. Then the carnage begins ... biting, peeling, sucking and picking at, trying not to waste any of the succulent treats. If you can manage some more, you should then go for some pescaito frito (fried fish).
www.romerijo.com/
C/ J. Antonio Romero Zarazaga, 1
+34 956 542 290
Google map: bit.ly/pmd9ir
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