Summer in Seville is all about staying cool in the day and enjoying the breeze in the evening. There is no better way to do this than to enjoy one of its many nightly events. Noches en los Jardines del Real Alcázar are are series of nightly concerts held in the Arab-style palace gardens. Choose from ancient medieval, classical or world music (even flamenco) and enjoy concerts in one of the most beautiful settings. Tickets can be bought from the Apeadero del Real Alcázar (Patio de Banderas) or via the Internet www.cajasol.es and cost €4 (€5 when purchased online).
A fried fish restaurant. There are two parts to the restaurant, separated by a wide pathway. One sells cooked seafood by the kilo, and the other fried fish. You walk in, pick your number and choose from the delights before you. They pack it up for you in a plastic bag, and you make your way to one of the silver tables equipped with a little rubbish bin for you to dispose of the shells and skins. Then the carnage begins ... biting, peeling, sucking and picking at, trying not to waste any of the succulent treats. If you can manage some more, you should then go for some pescaito frito (fried fish).
Not the most authentic of spas in the city, but it has everything that any reputable spa should: a relaxing atmosphere, with baths of three temperatures, spa jets, a steam room, and all the tea you could wish for. Until the end of August there are appealing offers available too. Enjoy a 90 min circuit and 30 min massage for €25 or 70 min circuit and 20 min massage for €20. Or on week days grab a 2for1 offer of a 90 min circuit (no massage) for just €24 for two people!
An outdoor cinema (most films are in Spanish though). The hot days are here, and nothing beats being outside in the evenings when the temperatures have dropped. The film list is quite complete with some of the biggies in this year's Oscars. Entry is €3, and there is a bar with cheap drinks and snacks (bottle of beer €1, and big bag of crisps €1).
This bar doesn't have the best location, perched on the corner of a busy road, but it is perfect for a quick bite and beer. It offers cheap, cold beer and a selection of fish-based montaditos at €1.50. Thick, white bread filled with your choice of filling: melva (frigate mackerel), achoas (achoivies), mejillones (mussels), caballa (Atlantic mackerel), or queso en aceite (cheese in oil).
Cardenal Ilundain s/n (corner of Manuel Suirot)
Bing map: binged.it/obLg2c
50s-style American dining, with authentic-looking decor, free jukeboxes and plenty of ketchup and mayo on the table for your liking. Meals are quite pricey - around seven euros for a burger and fries - DO NOT come for that! Pink lemonade a refreshing economical option and great choice of indulgent desserts.
Meal is a little rushed as you're given an hour slot. Reservations a must!
It's still not on the map, but this towering lattice construction has kicked up quite a fuss in Seville.
Locally known as the Setas (mushrooms) this 'architectural innovation' houses an archaeological museum, the Antiquarium (Roman ruins were found when a carpark was constructed some years ago); a regular market; and a walkway offering vistas of the cathedral and the Cartuja. Swanky bars and restaurants are set to open shortly.
Antiquarium Entry and Pasarela (walkway) is €1.20 or free if you are a resident of Seville.
Opening times: 10.00 a.m. - 2.00 p.m. and 6.00 p.m. - 00.00 a.m.
Plaza de la Encarnación, 18 41003 Seville, Spain
+34954 56 15 12
Google map: bit.ly/ixcJSv
Boreas could be considered a “gastro” tapas restaurant, serving traditional tapas with quality ingredients and a modern, international twist. It has a relaxed atmosphere, and a specials board that changes regularly, with plenty of choice for vegetarians and pescatarians. Tapas are a little pricier than your bog-standard bar but the quality is definitely there.
Make a table reservation to avoid disappointment
Alameda de Hercules, 61, Sevilla, 41002
+34 954 916334
La Alameda is considered the more indie part of the city, where many bars and restaurants have sprouted after a recent renovation. It is a short stroll away from the city centre, but is a hive for food and entertainment.
Google map: bit.ly/mm1TIV
A local bar squished between two blocks of flats. Don't go if you have tired feet or are looking forward to a good sit down, as there are no seats! Saying that the place was packed, and all of the white, plastic garden tables were taken up. There is not much on the menu, but the pajarito (roasted quail) and filete (pork bap) are both yum. Dare to try the spicy sauce too!
Avenida Santa Cecilia, 2, Triana, 41010 Sevilla
+34 954 08 66 94
Google map: bit.ly/fXIXVR
I stumbled upon this little gem of a museum/church/gallery, in the heart of the barrio de Santa Cruz. Entry is free on Sundays from 4pm - 8pm and you can enjoy one of the best preserved typical Seville constructions - patio and fountain. To the left is a small room housing paintings from Sevillano painters, including Velázquez. On the other side of the patio, behind a dark wooden door is the biggest treat, the church. Unlike any other I have entered in Spain, it is decorated with ornate, colourful imagery on the walls and ceiling.
Plaza Venerables, 8
41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 564 595
Especially in cooler months, El Comercio is a popular afternoon meeting point for Sevillanos. It is well known for its Churros con chocolate - a fried, long donut-like snack which is dipped in rich, thick, hot chocolate. If you want to try them, don't arrive before 5pm at the weekend, as its likely that the machine won't have had chance to warm up! (Speaking from experience)
Early on in the day it is great for chicharrones (ask for a quarter - un cuarto) and a cool beer from the bar. Then later in the afternoon sample some of the tapas (it is pretty economically priced as it is a public bar.) Try arranque (tomato, bread, garlic dip typical of Rota) and orteguillas (fried seaweed) and enjoy the sunshine or sit in the shade of La Merced tower. About 5 tapas and one 1/2 ración came to 20€ (feeding three hungry people).
Mercado Publico, c/Libertad, Rota
Google map: bit.ly/eifvXv
It is a bar that a friend recommended to me. It's nothing fancy and you can either sit at the bar or in one of two rooms with tables. We ordered four tapas (carriada, espinacas con garbanzos, pisto con huevo, and champinon a la plancha) with five drinks and it only came to 15 euros. Great home-made Spanish food.
C/ Herbolarios, 17 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 215 177
Google map: bit.ly/g3boVW
Blanco Cerrillo is one of the oldest bars in Seville. Very simple and no fuss. It is perfect for eating fried fish tapas, and the adobo is loved by the locals. It gets very packed and the tables outside (and any convenient space to place a tapa and beer) are usually occupied. Once inside though, you can normally holler your order and then inch your way to the bar. It is equipped with a team of three or four older waiters who are constantly shouting out the orders to the kitchen crew "'obo", "eroneeeeh" (boquerones). Something that I loved here before the smoking ban was that one of them had a little ciggy nooky-hole and would serve you and go back for a crafty drag every once in a while - now he swigs from a Cruzcampo botellín instead (a small bottle of Cruzcampo). Tapas are well-priced at only €1.50 a pop.
Calle Doctor Jimenez Diaz, 16, 41008 Seville, Spain
Here you can chose from a range of sit down meals and enjoy a fantastic view of the surrounding slopes. If it is a bit nippy, warm up with Sopa de Grazalema (Grazalema soup, a broth with chorizo and pieces of bread). Next, my favourite paté de perdiz (Partridge paté) and then if you really want a feast a revuelto (scrambled egg) with seasonal veg (mushroom, asparagus, etc) and a meat of your choice (we opted for the beast of a leg of lamb, which could feed an army, not just two people!)
If you are finding it impossible to get a ticket to the Alhambra, a final resort could always be to purchase a bono (pass). For €25 or €30 it combines entry into the Cathedral among other places, and provides a number of journeys on local buses (you may be grateful, the city is quite hilly, although the ride often feels more like a rollercoaster!!)
I really recommend heading 20 minutes away from the city to La Puebla del Río to feast on their speciality arroz con pato (rice with duck). There are many restaurants that serve it, but the locals love the riverside, family-run El Rezón. The dish costs €8 per head and comes served in a cazuela (casserole dish) with your very own ladle. If you are rather peckish try the camarones con pimiento asado y huevo frito (tiny shrimps with roasted peppers and fried eggs) or mejillones rellenos (filled mussels) for starters.
Nothing beats a massage or spa session after a long hike in the mountains. A 30 minute therapeutic massage is a bargain at €20.
Paco, the owner, would go out of his way to ensure that you go away knot-free! He even stayed after hours to make sure that my friends and I were all seen to.
A cosy tapas bar locally known as Peregil by Sevillanos, named after the owner, local showman and singer. It is tiny although you can have a sit down meal in the restaurant next door. It is known for its orange wine (vino de naranja) and has a wide range of tapas and manzanillas. It is a quirky little place with a tiny W.C. which has a sign saying, "No running in the toilet corridors". On the wall there is a bird cage with a stuffed canary, and another sign reading "Está mu cayoa" (He's very quiet!) and ironically another which prohibits singing in the bar, (Prohibido el cante).
Their montadito de pringá (small roll with meaty mixture) is also considered to be rather tasty.
To find out more about Seville in general, visit my blog:
Mateos Gago, 20 (just outside Barrio
de Santa Cruz)
+34954 218 966
Google map: bit.ly/ehXyLx
A beautiful restaurant/tapas bar. This place invites you in, with its windows wide open and you hear the chitter-chatter as you approach. Peering in you can see the jamón hanging above the bar and an extensive collection of wines in the racks. This bar, dating back to 1670, has a traditional decor with promotional alcoholic beverage tiles, kegs and little trinkets (my faves were bottles shaped like the torre de oro -gold tower). We had started to get quite hungry here and picked a handful of options from the menu: a typical Seville dish espinacas con garbanzos (chickpeas and spinach), bacalao a la riojana (cod with Rioja-style sauce), carriallada en salsa (pig cheek) and solomillo ibérico (Iberian pork fillet).
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