This quiet coastal destination around 16 miles from Kampot used to be Cambodia’s beach town in the 1960s, but nowadays the old villas are in ruins. The main draw of visiting Kep is the oceanfront seafood stalls, which there are many to pick from, all serving the same delicious fare of locally caught fish, crab, squid, prawns, snails and many other seafood delicacies. You can go to the seafront and choose your live catch from the fishermen, actually more likely fisherwomen and then your selection will be barbecued for you and brought to your table within fifteen minutes. A full table of assorted seafood with rice, vegetables and beer will set you back around $25 for four people. Before or after eating do visit the quiet beach for a relaxing swim.

The journey from Kampot takes around 45 minutes. You can hire a moto driver for $8 round trip or quite easily do the journey yourself on a hired motorbike.

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The 1040 metres high Bokor Mountain was once a playground of the rich and famous during the early 1900’s. However, it is now a hauntingly derelict ghost town. There is so much to see on this former French hill station, such as an old abandoned Catholic church, a derelict French colonial style hotel and casino, a holiday villa, a royal residence and a Buddhist monastery that is built on the verge of the mountain. Also wild elephants and other jungle animals are occasionally seen if you’re lucky.

The view over the Cambodian and Vietnamese coast and islands from the top (1081 metres above sea level) is spectacular. At certain times of the year the mountain gets enveloped by a quick moving thick fog which makes for one of the most eerie yet beautiful sights I’ve ever experienced. It is also possible to stay at a National Park guesthouse on Bokor.

Hire a taxi to take you to the summit; the journey should take around two hours and costs about $20. I would advise against riding a motorbike there unless you are an experienced rider on a dirt bike. I have heard of many near death experiences of foreigners trying to do the journey themselves.

Visited by moto or 4WD vehicle (rates vary so haggle) and it is a two hour trip up a bumpy track.

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A visit to the Teuk Chhou Falls is highly recommended, around 12kms from the centre of Kampot. A beautiful spot to while away a hot day, cooling off in the clear river or eating roast chicken with morning glory and rice on one of the many bamboo platforms which are built hanging over the edge of the river. A meal of whole roast chicken enough to feed four with vegetables, rice and beer (plenty) will set you back about $20. Local motos (we recommend Krang, he lives near Little Garden) in Kampot can take you there for no more than $7 round trip. Invite your moto to eat with you, this is part of the pleasure and allows you to meet the locals.

12kms northeast of Kampot - along with Teuk Chhou Zoo.

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I would also recommend a visit to the orphanage, which is a 10 minute journey from The Little Garden Bar guesthouse over the river. It is an orphanage for children who have lost their parents to HIV. It was a very humbling yet positive experience to spend an afternoon with the children, and learn about the work that is done there.

10 min walk over the bridge from The Little Garden Bar.

www.littlegardenbar.com/aspeca
www.littlegardenbar.com/aspeca

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A recommended place to stay is the Little Garden Bar, a villa-style guesthouse off the river, with clean rooms with fans and a nice restaurant serving Khmer and western food. Ten percent of profits go to a local orphanage called the Aspeca Orphanage.

North of the bridge on the waterfront.

www.littlegardenbar.com

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A recommended place to stay is the Little Garden Bar, a villa-style guesthouse off the river, with clean rooms with fans and a nice restaurant serving Khmer and western food. Ten percent of profits go to a local orphanage called the Aspeca Orphanage.

North of the bridge on the waterfront

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A good restaurant is the Bamboo Light Cafe & Restaurant, on the riverfront. Good value delicious Sri Lankan food (if you are in need of a change) and friendly owner make for a lovely evening. The riverfront has many choices, just take a stroll and you will find some good places to eat, both local and western.

South of the bridge on the waterfront.

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A beautiful and sleepy province, once known by the French as the Perle de la Cote d’Agate, many French colonial villas are here. This is a great place to get a true feeling of Cambodia. There are not so many foreigners present, which we think makes for a better experience. This is one of our favourite parts of Cambodia.

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The Central and Russian markets deserve an afternoon visit. With a vast array of goods from gold and silks to knick-knacks and locally grown food produce. Haggling is a must, but should always be done with a smile - a bit of very basic Khmer thrown in goes a long way.

Russian Market (Psar Toul Tom Poung)
Central Market (Psah Thmei)

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Try and befriend a local and get them to take you to some local Khmer eateries and places - much more fun than the standard tourist haunts.

Everywhere!

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This restaurant is very good. The frenetic pace of Phnom Penh’s roads can be left behind. With a style that is clean and modern, The Shop wouldn’t be out of place in any smart urban setting. There is a great Mediterranean menu offering frittatas, quiche, and delicious sandwiches. It also has a wonderful selection of fruit tarts, fresh breads and croissants.

The Shop: No.39, Street 240, 12006 PP
Tel: 023 986 964
Web: theshopcambodia.com
Email: theshop.cambodia@gmail

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There are still some very beautiful parts to PP. For example, Street 240, with its galleries, lovely restaurants and tree-lined colonial feel.

Steet 240

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If your budget allows, a great hotel to stay at in Siem Reap is the Foreign Correspondents Club (F.C.C.). Renovated from the old French Governor’s mansion, French art deco embraces modern chic. Contemporary, beautiful rooms, double rooms from $90, swimming pool, spa, room service, lovely staff, great good value restaurant/ bar serving classic Khmer food, contemporary European dishes and the best cocktails in Cambodia. Breakfast, which is included and is a vast amount, can be delivered to your room at your preferred time - from half four in the morning (to cater for the traveller who wants to see Angkor at Sunrise) until two in the afternoon.

Pokambor St
www.fcccambodia.com/angkor
063/760280

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A one-day pass is sufficient enough time to visit some of the key temples in this beautiful enclosure. Make sure that you arrive early - sunrise is a very recommended time (go to the Bayon wat), though for the more relaxed traveller a seven/eight o’clock start will ensure that you will not only see most of the site but also without the hordes of people that arrive around eleven o’clock. Hire a tuk-tuk driver for the day, should cost no more than $10, many can speak English and some have great knowledge of the site or hire a guide. Be a bit wary of some of the freelance guides in the major wats, who’ll approach you - say one thing about a wat then expect a few dollars.

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