Hot, noisy, heaving with people - go about it the wrong way, and Delhi can be hell. Go about it the right way, and you'll find yourself staying in one of the most restful, charming guest houses in India. Gorgeously decorated and improbably cheap, it boasts comfortable beds, spotlessly clean bathrooms, home-cooked meals should you want them, and a blissfully cool roof terrace overhung with climbing plants. The owners, Avnish and Urvashi, go out of their way to make your stay as pleasant as possible - they'll book you taxis to and from the airport, and Avnish runs fascinating off-the-beaten-track tours of 'Hidden Delhi' every Saturday. All this, and it's just a 10-minute walk from Connaught Place. Can't recommend it highly enough.

R-500, New Rajinder Nagar 110060; www.master-guesthouse.com/

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