Don't stay near the train station within the city walls; it is teaming with brothels and unsavoury characters.

Do go to the Muslim quarter for a fantastic cultural feast for your eyes and stomach. The quarter comes to life at night; go just before sundown so that you can visit the most unusual of mosques with an oriental design, hidden in a corner at the back of the main drag. Here you'll find restaurants and street hawkers and then you can bargain away in the goods market. Don't buy any warriors as they crumble before you've even got back on the plane.

By the drum tower within the city walls

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