DIY Dining. Good for two people, better for more. I've heard several times that Koreans consider this the best place in town. This is as far as you could get from the touristy places, and it's about dining experience, not decor. Most of the customers will be Korean families, and the staff speak passable English. The prices are quite reasonable, especially if you share dishes.

Definitely go for the barbeque dishes. One order is enough to feed two or more people. They will promptly bring out a smoldering charcoal pot and grill, then bring you at least 20 little bowls of spicy vegetable side dishes, and a big plate of marinated meat, which you now have to cook on the provided grill. Between sampling all the bowls, and keeping track of what's cooking, you'll have plenty to keep you busy. Dining should always be this fun.

5247 N. Western Ave (773) 334-1589. Western or Foster busses, Brown line Western station is 15 min walk.
www.chicagoreader.com/cgi-bin/rrr/details.cgi?numb=2004

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This charming little cafe is one of those places Chicagoans take guests to, because they love it so much themselves. Well-known for tasty breakfasts and lunches, but their delicious dinners are one of the best-kept secrets in the city. Expect long waits for breakfast or lunch on the weekends, but at night, you'll find it sparsely populated.

www.swedishbistro.com/index.htm

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One of the city's least-know jewels, despite being housed in the grandest piece of classical architecture on one of the busiest stretches of Michigan Avenue. An unusual thing in America, the whole place is free to the public.

It is primarily a museum and performance space, with a busy schedule of exhibits and performances. On Saturdays, they often have midday dance classes for young and old (great fun, even if you just watch).

The Chicago Symphony and Opera both offer free performances in the opulent Preston Bradley Hall, covered in glass mosaic, beneath the world's largest Tiffany dome.

On Michigan Avenue, at Randolph. Half a block away from the Loop trains, served by several buses and underground garages;
www.ci.chi.il.us/Tourism/CultureCenterTour/

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chicago_Cultural_Center

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Chicago's finest 'pork project' in decades, it features surprising architecture and art that are all interactive in some way. In nice weather, you'll find dozens or hundreds of kids playing at Crown Fountain, with two towering digital screens showing the smiling faces of Chicagoans in slow-motion.

The city also offers free performances in the Gehry-designed Pritzker Pavillion. There's a bike centre to rent or stow a bike, a large garden, skating rink, restaurant and spectacular views of both the lake, and the most elegant stretch of Michigan Avenue.

My favorite part? The world's only Gehry bridge, which meanders like a lazy stream, and leaps across Columbus Avenue, tranporting you into another large park.

On Michigan Avenue between Randolph and Monroe.
One block from the Loop, served by every elevated train in the city, numerous buses, and several underground garages; www.millenniumpark.org/

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A cool, modern B&B with a cool (slightly eccentric) host. Located close to the National Museums, a few steps from the Leidseplein square. It is not in the centre of town, so it's calmer and quieter at night. We stayed in the Patio Room - a good size, with a roomy modern bath.

B&Bs are the best deal in Amsterdam. You get personal service, and you can sit down and chat with the owners about lesser-known places to go, and how to avoid crowds at the tourist traps.

If you have difficulty with steep stairs, or if someone in your party is in a wheelchair, you'll have to check in to a modern hotel.

87 Leidsestraat, 1017 NX Amsterdam; tel: 20 622 98 34; www.marcelamsterdam.nl/

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