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Standing atop the tower today, with all of Istanbul spread out 360 degrees all around, one appreciates the incredibleness of the feat, even while hoping to avoid trying to duplicate it oneself.

Although venturing onto the uppermost cylindrical ramparts of this narrow tower built by the Genoese in 1348 induces vertigo for some, it is a truly magical experience, especially at sunset, when the low haze of smog hanging over the western horizon turns the sky copper-red, as the distant mosques start to wail mournfully, seabirds circle down over the boats of the Golden Horn, and the bridges below resonate with the burden of traffic. Indeed, it is at the Galata Tower where one can truly experience this sprawling city in all its unfathomable glory, briefly attaining the tranquillity to take it all in, far above the massed multitudes of Istanbul's streets.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5138 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5134 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5134 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3869 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3869 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3868 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3868 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3866 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3866 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3864 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5137
That said, a little advice picked up from the experts in the business might be useful.

When looking for carpets, be sure to look around and compare before committing (a little home study before arriving is great too). Try to look for shops with serious tradition (family-owned is a good sign) and an attested reputation; such firms are keen to keep up their business and good name and enjoy repeat business- another good indicator.

Further, you'll be wise to demand Turkish rugs only, with certification. The last few years have seen a proliferation of cheap, mass-produced carpets from Afghanistan and Pakistan passed off as the real thing.

Third, avoid the touts and well-attired persuaders strategically located nearby the prime tourist sites; they are working on commission and not particularly scrupulous.

Now that you know what to look out for, where to go?

The Grand Bazaar is of course the prime place for shoppers (though not the only), teeming with over 4,000 shops of all kinds. Although there are many excellent carpet dealers, one unique and rather hip one is Ethnicon, a small but now quite well known outlet offering unique “fusion” rugs and wall hangings, or "kilims."

The vision of the company was to cater to an emerging market (the modern urban interior of varying degrees of minimalism) while at the same time addressing an acute need: the increasing scarcity of antique carpets coming from Anatolian family collections, which have gone from a flood to a trickle over the past 20 years.

To get around this lack, Ethnicon decided to use what was to be found from damaged antique partial carpets, nomad tent coverings, soft casings, scraps and so on, patching them all together through a 15-step process. The result is alluring rugs and wall decorations that combine old ingredients with modern deco tastes. With widespread media attention, the Ethnicon style has become a brand in its own right.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5137 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5136
But the offering that will really send you to the dentist is the unique local favourite: the soutzouk loukoum, a block of loukoumi dusted over with confectioner’s sugar, all laid out in a curling sausage shape.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5136 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5135 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5135 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4309 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4309 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/4308 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3867 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3867 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3863 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/3863