Any restaurant in Kumkapi is great: a network of pedestrian streets and nothing but tens of restaurants. On hot nights, it’s almost impossible to walk around, with pavements full of tables of happy diners and small groups of musicians travelling from one restaurant to another.

There is no global pop there, but lots of Turkish songs sang along by all encouraged by copious amounts of raki flowing around.

Restaurants offer great selections of mezzes and main courses. Last time I was there, a friend wanted to eat a dish the restaurant we were in didn’t serve, so the waiter ordered it from the restaurant opposite. How‘s that for hospitality?

Down from Sultan Ahmet towards the Sea of Marmara coast

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The bar at the top of Ceylan International Hotel is wonderful for sipping classy cocktails while watching the Bosphorus. It’s especially great at night when, because the hotel is high enough to avoid the city’s lights, the only lights that pierce the darkness of the sea are those of the ferries and the floodlights of the mosques and palaces. Drinks are not cheap by Turkish standards but then neither is the view.

The hotel is towards Harbiye from Taksim Square

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No matter how little time you have for visiting Istanbul, you have to take a boat trip along the Bosphorus. All boats zigzag the Bosporus stopping alternately at a European and an Asian port. The best time to take the boat is on a warm summer’s evening so that you get to see the sunset and, if lucky, full moon over the city.

There is a public service ferry that does the full length or privately run boats that also offer shorter routes

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If you have more than a few days, I recommend taking the ferry to one or more of the Princes' Islands.

There are no cars, hardly any other city life noises and the air is definitely cleaner. They are my favourite spot for peace and quiet especially in winter, early spring and autumn as there is hardly anyone visiting and the beautiful wood-clad houses from late 19th century are empty and serene in all their glory.

You can walk around or take a tour in a horse drawn open (covered in winter) carriage and have a glass of tea by the port.

There are regular ferry services to the islands from Eminonu on the Golden Horn and Bostanci on the Anatolian side

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The corner terrace of Topkapi Palace. I don’t think this is the official name but you can’t miss it. It’s on the Sea of Marmara side. At the end of the terrace, you will be standing right above where Marmara and Golden Horn meet and the Bosphorus starts. You can stand there for ages, watching the commuter ferries criss-cross from one continent to another, dodging the massive tankers and trying not to ram into all manner of small boats carrying commuters or fishermen.

Whenever I miss Istanbul, my hometown, I close my eyes and imagine this view of where Istanbul comes together.

The Palace enterance is behind Aya Sofia

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