If you can make yourself understood in Japanese, and you ask nicely in advance, you can go and watch asa geiko (morning practice) at a sumo 'beya' for free.

The stables themselves are fascinating, and worth the trip alone. Outside: normal-looking suburban houses, Inside: dirt floor, padded walls and a sumo ring. In exchange for getting there for about 8am you'll get to see the wrestlers run through their techniques and warm ups (when we went this included beating each other in the belly with a lightly-padded baseball bat) and you'll see plenty of short matches between rikishi of all levels without having to pay to see a whole basho and at far closer proximity than anywhere else.

Most of the stables (beya) are in the Ryogoku area, and lists and phone numbers can be found on the internet.

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