Go at night to pay homage to the statue of Hachiko the dog. Hachiko went to meet his master at the station every night,even for 9 years after his master died at work and didn't return. Great spot to people watch! Be amazed by the orderliness of the Japanese as they wait to cross the road into the Centre Gai. Nobody moves until the green man shows, then 300+ cross the road at the same time. Wander the pedestrianised streets and gawp at the weird, trendy fashions of the young Tokyoites. All this lit up by the 6-storey tall TV screens and neon lights.

Shibuya station

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On the east side of Shinjuku station, to the north of the Odakyu department store look for the alleyways of Shoniben Yokocho - "Piss Alley"!

Don't let the name put you off - this area has loads of small bars selling yakitori. Choose your own kebabs - chicken, tomatoes, fish, pork, etc and have them barbecued as you listen to the banter from the chefs and barmaids to the passing customers. Beer and lemon bitters to drink with the locals, bags of noise and atmosphere and very cheap!

Nishi-Shinjuku, east of Shinjuku station

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Use the Yamanote Japan Railway line to move around the city. Trains run every 3 minutes and are always on time. Announcements on the trains are in Japanese and English. Digital displays show you where you are, how far in minutes to next station,any delays, which side of the carriage to leave from and what the weather is like! Maximum price we paid was 190yen (80p) for a 25 min. ride. No litter and no graffiti.

Look bewildered and hold a map and the locals will be queuing up to help you and to practise their English. We found they were delighted to speak to 'native English speakers' with authentic English accents.

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Atmospheric Buddhist temple leads into a colourful market selling food, clothes, souvenirs, etc. If you want to buy fans, wood-block prints, chopsticks, kimonos, Edo dolls, combs, incense burners or even a coat for your dog - this is the place to come. Many local craft shops and not a western designer store in sight.

Asakusa station

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Try this traditional restaurant in an alley two blocks east of the Sony building. Serves kamameshi - rice cooked in a metal bowl inside a wooden holder complete with lid. Choose your own toppings - we had chicken, mushrooms, bamboo shoots and prawns. Inexpensive. Helpful waiters and locals and English menu.

Ginza station

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