These only go on sale of the day of travel and can sell out fast for weekends and holidays. The ticket office opens at 6am. I went at 8am recently and all were already gone, so beware!

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This place is wonderful - the staff can be snotty, and it's not cheap, but fascinating all the same. And it's just a couple of hundred yards up the hill from the Port Institute (also can be snotty) but cheap tasting of some great port wines.

Rua Dom Pedro V, 89;tel 21 342-47-29;Metro: Restauradores, then take the Elevador da Gloria and turn right;Open til 2am

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Sintra is wonderful. If you have more time take the old tram from the terminus near the art gallery over to the coast - some good beaches there and a lovely run to them. Trams are infrequent, so plan!

Regular trains from Sete Rios station or Entrecampos station (Estação Rossio closed at time of writing)

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Watch out for pickpockets - I know EVERYONE says this, but I used to live in Lisbon and I saw it happen time and time again on the 28 and 15 trams. - Especially by the ticket machines on the new 15s

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Originally a place for Alentejans to meet, this restaurant has a lovely Moorish courtyard. Go upstairs for a cheap beer, and have a nosey in the crumbling ballrooms, and at the great tiles in the restaurant. It looks private, but just go in from the street - a small door and some tiny stairs lead you into the courtyard. The restaurant is nothing special. It's located in a muddle of tat shops and fish restaurants with pushy waiters outside trying to tempt you in to their overpriced places.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 58,
behind the theatre in Rossio

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Ruined church right in Chiado in Lisbon's centre. Wonderful, relaxing and quiet place to escape the heat. Great museum also inside with some weird and wonderful exhibits. In a nice shady square too. Go in early spring to get the jacarandas in bloom. Closed on Sundays (whereas most museums close on a Monday). You can get a look in if you go up the Elevador da Santa Justa - which also has fabulous views over Baixa.

Largo do Carmo;
tel: 21 346 0473
Come out of the top exit of Baixa-Chiado metro, walk down the hill (past cafe Brasileira) and turn left up any street – which will be steep. It's at the top in the shade.

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