This private airport transfer service will take 1-4 people into the city centre for about £12 (for 5-8, simply double it). There is a stand opposite international arrivals. Pay there and they give you a voucher for the driver outside. Don't get a taxi: at least Dick Turpin, the original highway robber, wore a mask.

If you're on a budget you could do worse than bus 119 from outside the terminal. It goes to Dejvicka Metro station, which is just four stops from Wenceslas Square. You can buy a transfer ticket in the terminal for about 30p. Make sure you validate your ticket in the machine when boarding the bus, or you will be travelling illegally and liable for an on-the-spot fine from the plain-clothes inspectors who target unsuspecting tourists.

In the international arrivals at Ruzyne Airport;
tel: +420 224 281 005;
email: cedaz@cmail.cz

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An orthodox church where the team who assassinated Heydrich made their last stand. A museum dedicated to the Nazi occupation, the plot to kill Heydrich and the brutal reprisals that followed is now located in the crypt where the assassins met their end. If you have any interest in this period of history then this museum is fascinating and very cheap. There is a plaque dedicated to the memory of the dead parachutists above the crypt window on Resslova, poignantly surrounded by bullet holes.

Resslova, New Town, between Karlova Nam and Jiraskuv Bridge. Nearest metro: Karlovo Namesti

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A glorious, seen-better-days, art nouveau masterpiece amid the tourist tat of Wenceslas Square. The gound floor area is stunning and the pavement tables are a good place to people watch over a couple of cold ones, though a bit pricy for Prague. We stayed here in 2004 and got the room for less than £70 via a Czech website, so shop around. Though the rooms are in need of refurbishing this should not detract from the general ambience, or the central location. There is a metro station within yards and you are spoilt for choice with trams, including the night service.

The fast food kiosks all over Wenceslas Square are best avoided, a charming young lady gave me change for Kc100 when I gave her a Kc500 note, when I queried this she paid up without batting an eyelid, obviously not the first fat idiot from Gateshead she'd attempted to fleece.

Vaclavske Nam, just south of the junction with Jindrisska; nearest metro: Mustek

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A beautiful art nouveau bar with traditional, hearty, Czech food. Try the moravsky hrabec, a dish of diced pork and onions, which comes with both bread and potato dumplings and red and white sauerkraut. Of course all this wonderful Bohemian fair needs washing down, this bar is owned by the Pilsner Urquell brewery and sells beer by the litre .
It was busy on the Wednesday night we went, but we had no trouble finding a table in the cellar bar, which turns into a dance club later on. This bar attracts plenty of locals, which is always a good sign, the staff are also very friendly, not always a Prague strong point. Wonderful!

Junction of Kolkovne and Vezenska,opposite The Spanish Synogogue; nearest metro: Staromestska

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