Drink Boréale Rousse, one of the great beers of the world. St Ambroise or Griffon blond are pretty tasty too.

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Maison des Bagels on St Viateur is open 24/7 and the bagels are the best in the world - wonderful with Liberté cream cheese (eat your heart out Philadelphia) and a smoked salmon mousse.

263 St-Viateur west near du Parc ave
Metro station: Place-des-Arts then take the 80 bus north
Tel: (514) 276-8044

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It's best to avoid the unimaginative side of downtown, Peel and McGill, Ste Catherine are worth visiting once but it is like doing Oxford Street and is mainly Anglophone as well as expensive.

Try Plâteau Mont Royal and the streets to Parc LaFontaine; Rachel to Boulevard St Laurent, St Denis, Duluth; Laurier and then come up to Mile End, Rue Bernard and St Viateur to meet the real Québecois Montréalais.

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A trip to the surrounding countryside is a must, maybe head to the Eastern Townships like Frelighsburg, Knowlton or Sutton, cross the border into Vermont. Do this in mid October time and catch the colours, as one should from Mont Royal across Montreal itself. It is a pleasing view, though Rio is better. A trip to Québec City is also recommended.

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