The historical Sunday Market is now jammed in amongst the modern tiled buildings of communist Han Chinese Kashgar. This does little to detract from the amazing looking people peddling their wares and produce.

Every Sunday - start early. Can be difficult to track down the livestock market due to the fact that it recently moved and the ever present language barrier. Any good guide book should point you in the right direction.

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This family run guest house is one of the best value places I've ever stayed. Beautiful house with fantastic rooms for $10 a night. Mrs Amarasinghe's rice and curry are also top notch - some of the best in Sri Lanka.

057-226-8175

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Thamel's best kept secret (till now) ... Sam's Bar - run by Sam and his Austrian wife - is a great place to chill out and meet locals, backpackers, climbers, overlanders and loads of other interesting people. If you're lucky you'll start with a Sam special and who knows where it'll go from there!

Upstairs opposite the Hotel Mandap in Thamel

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If you've been in South East Asia for a while and are hankering after some very high-quality western food, this is about as good as it gets. Excellent modern cuisine, great bar, fantastic ambience. Prices are fairly reasonable too. Can't recommend it highly enough.

In the centre of the city close to the river (marked on any guide book map). There's another branch in Siem Reap which is just as good as the original.

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