Henrik Ibsen’s favourite hangout, this venerable institution, with its opulent draperies and 19th-century-styled restaurant, still retains its fin-de-siècle atmosphere. Nobel Peace Prize winners stay at the Grand when collecting their award. The rooftop bar, accessible to all, has a beautiful view over parliament, Oslo’s main avenue, Karl Johans gate, and the fjord. A standard double room comes in at 2,190 kroner.

Karl Johans gate 31; Tel: 23 21 20 00;
www.grand.no/

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A youth hostel with panoramic views of the city, a 20-minute tram ride from the city centre. A single room with bathroom costs 365 kroner.

Haraldsheimv 4; Tel: 22 22 29 65; www.haraldsheim.oslo.no/

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Oslo’s quirkiest restaurant, with game trophies hanging next to paintings left as payment by penniless artists. The bar is also a fab place to round off a night out – it’s a favourite for people who’ve just banqueted at the nearby royal palace. Main courses such as reindeer cakes or catfish are 142 and 225 kroner respectively.

Parkveien 12; Tel: 22 69 69 04; www.lorry.no/

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An airy canteen that dishes out typical Norwegian fare, such as meatballs and gravlax (cured salmon in sugar, salt and dill). The special of the day is 96 kroner.

Rosenkrantz gate 8; Tel: 23 21 42 10

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A detective novel about a private eye's daughter investigating the mysterious circumstances of her father’s death. With its bleak, atmospheric descriptions of the city, it’s particularly suitable if you’re heading to Oslo in winter.

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A family saga set in Majorstua, in western Oslo, between 1944 and the present day. Shortlisted for 2005’s Impac.

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Penned by the Nobel laureate, this is arguably Norway’s most famous novel. A literary masterpiece about a starving writer wandering the streets of Oslo.

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The gentle story of an odd-couple friendship between two flatmates. One is a poet sheltered by his mother all his life, the other an oafish gentle giant. Nominated for the Oscar for best foreign film in 2003.

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Taking a summer walk or a cross-country skiing trip in Nordmarka feels like a holiday. Best enjoyed on a weekday though, as the weekends are a more crowded affair.

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In winter, this is a favourite activity. Rent a luge at Frognerseteren (tube line 1), and follow the crowd. To get back to the top, jump back on the tube. A day pass is 45 kroner.

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From any station in the city centre, hop on tube line 1 in the direction of Frognerseteren, and watch in awe as the train leaves Oslo behind, zigzags its way up into the forested hills and stops at the top. Spectacular. If you have plenty of time, walk down to Lake Sognsvann, and take tube no 5 back to town.

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The park can be found in western Oslo, and has hundreds of statues by Norwegian sculptor Gustav Vigeland, a man obsessed with the body and its relationship with nature. In summer, the kids will enjoy the nearby waterpark, in winter they can skate at the ice-rink.

Main entrance: Kirkeveien

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Rudolph tastes surprisingly good. Eat it as a steak, a meatcake or in a stew. Don’t forget the cranberry jam.

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In the summer watch the sun go down on the waterfront or amble along the Akerselva river.

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In winter, get cosy with a hot chocolate with whipped cream at a cafe after skiing.

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With their crooked noses, fluorescent hair and baggy pyjamas, they’re even uglier than garden gnomes. Unfortunately available everywhere.

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Three extremely well-preserved vessels are showcased in this museum on the Bygdøy peninsula. I’m still in awe at how the Vikings could cross Atlantic in these open boats.

Huk Aveny 35; Tel: 22 43 83 79

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Fridge magnets, posters, coffee mugs, mousepads, inflatable dolls - the Munch Museum sells them all.

Tøyengata 53; Tel: 23 49 35 00; www.munch.museum.no/

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A cultural gem, with its amazing collection of paintings by the expressionist artist. Munch painted four versions of the Scream, so even though one is gone, there’s still another one kicking around the place.

Tøyengata 53; Tel: 23 49 35 00; www.munch.museum.no/

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An intimate 1950s-style bar with the best cocktails in town. I can’t keep away from the place.

Thorvald Meyers gate 30; Tel: 22 04 13 77

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