You don't need to pay for an organised trip to Auschwitz. Catch the PKS-Oswiecim bus which leaves from the lower floor of the bus station behind the railway station. Ask at the ticket office if you can't find it. Pay on the bus (about 18zl for a return ticket). The bus is slightly larger than a minibus and when I went it was driven fast on the bumpy roads, so be warned if you suffer from travel sickness! It picks up and drops off along the route, but it is obvious when you arrive outside the Auschwitz camp gates and the driver announced it on my trip. Your ticket has return times printed on the back and the bus picks up outside the gates where it drops off. Journey takes about 1hr.20mins. Frequency of trip varies but is about twice an hour during the main part of the day. You don't need a guided tour of the camp. Buy a small booklet (c.7zl) and read the comprehensive display boards. Entrance is free. Allow two or three hours for your visit.

Bus station on ul.Bosacka behind railway station.

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A small bookshop and cafe with wonderful coffee, biscuits and cake, a clean loo and friendly staff. You can sit undisturbed and gaze out of the open door or sit outside if fine. Located on a very attractive street close to the main centre.

Ul. Kanonicka, Krakow. Opposite Mary Magdalene Square.

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At this centrally located house you can view the Gallery of Stanislaw Wyspianski's works which has the largest collection in Poland of this turn of the last century versatile artist. See his paintings, stained glass designs, stage costume designs and some of his furniture.

11 Szczepanska Street, Krakow

www.muzeum.krakow.pl

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The Opernpalais cafe at Unter den Linden offers an experience unequalled anywhere that I know of. The opulent surroundings are only upstaged by the wonderful choice of delicious cakes. You can imagine being here in a long past era, whiling away your leisure hours with good conversation, kaffee und kuchen. Not to be missed.

Opernpalais, Unter den Linden 5, 10117 Berlin. Tel. 030 2026 83

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A restaurant where we ate from the 'Winterzaubermenu' available from October to January. This costs 30 euros for 4 courses - and 3 of them are duck! Duck pancake rolls, duck 'cappucino' soup, leg of duck, and (hooray, no duck) a light mousse with cherries. Basil Fawlty ('the duck's off') has nothing on this! All served beautifully and politely in a warm, cosy environment.

Gendarmenmarkt 5, 10117 Berlin Mitte
030/2291661. www.refugium-bin.de
Nearest metro - Mitte

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