Almost every village and town along the Croatian Coastline has a summer festival of some sort, in July or August or both. Omis, half an hour's drive from Split is one of the heartlands of traditional Klapa music and has a festival devoted exclusively to it every summer. It’s multi part harmony singing, normally male only and without accompaniment, and the sweet stirring tones of the harmonies belie the physique of the singers.
"The Mediterranean as it once was" (Croatian National Tourist Board byline) is, at last, being well and truly discovered.
Croatia Online is the result of four years living and working in Croatia and exploring it by road and sea. It’s a resource for ex pats and travellers alike and includes inside information on the mainland and islands, how to get there, eating out, shopping, entertainment, property news, entertainment, news, lifestyle and much more.
If you’re in the middle of a heat wave and the beaches are too hot, head for the banks of the Cetina river, near Omiš (around 16 miles from Spilt) and take a plunge in icy cool fresh water.
Along the River Cetina are two restaurants which can be reached by ferry from Omiš (for about 35 kunas pp). Radmanove Mlinice is about 4 miles upstream and Restoran Kaštil Slanica, a mile further.
Tel: 021 862 073
Restoran Kaštil Slanica
Tel: 021 861 783
Newly opened, already doing a roaring trade, and in a lively back street between Split Old Town and the ferry port, The Bistro Black Cat has something a bit different to offer. Sit on the shady terrace and enjoy a full English breakfast, filled croissants, enormous gourmet salads, tapas and a range of international cuisine at local prices. Or just drop by for a real cocktail with fresh ingredients during Happy Hour between 5 and 6pm.
You’ll find Bistro Black Cat, on the corner of Petrova and Šegvićeva, by walking east to the end of Split Riva, passing the market on your left, and then over the bridge over the railway lines on to Petrova. You’ll quickly come to Šegvićeva on your right and the welcoming sign of “Bistro Black Cat”. Or phone 021 490 284 for directions if you get lost! Open 8 am to 12 pm.
Trogir is teeming with bars and restaurants, densely packed along the Riva and in the narrow cobbled streets behind. Many of them are open all year round, including all those listed below.
Top of our list of Pizzerias is Mirkec, half way along the Riva (Boardwalk), and with exceptionally friendly and efficient staff.
Our favourite restaurant is Skrapa, serving good quality plain Dalmatian food in a rustic environment at reasonable prices. You’re assured of a warm welcome from the owners, who specialise in mildly eccentric (ie phallic) table decorations.
There’s a boat restaurant, near the marina, on the Čiovo side of the bridge which is not as expensive as it might sound and if you want a posh meal, at the higher end of the price range, try Fontana or Alka in the old town, a short walk from the Riva.
021 883 042
021 885 313
Boat Restaurant Čelica
021 822 344
021 885 744
Bol on Brac island is famous for its "Zlatni Rat" (Golden Horn beach), which juts out into the sea and changes shape with the tides and currents. On the western side, Paklina FKK is a popular naturist beach, and the main part of Zlatni Rat is a favourite for windsurfers of all levels, with plenty of training schools.
The winds are generally mild in the morning with the stronger maestral winds picking up in the afternoon. If you're a really keen windsurfer, then Brac island has plenty more to offer. If the maestral fails in Bol then take a short drive to Supetar to catch the southern Jugo wind or to Povlja if the northern Bora wind is blowing.
Konoba Krkjaši in Uvala Krknjas bay, serves up fresh fish and excellent meat dishes at reasonable island prices and is set in a lovely garden. It’s tucked away by a wooden pier where you can moor shallow draft boats.
Uvala Krknjas Bay, Drvenik Island. You can get a ferry from Trogir Riva.
Tel 021 893 073 or mobile 091 575 0925
Get the ferry from Trogir Riva to Drvenik Veliki or, better still, hire a boat and go to Uvala Krknjaš on the east coast of Drvenik Veliki Island.
It’s a deserted bay, apart from a couple of houses and a good local restaurant, and the water here is so crystal clear, you’ll never want to swim anywhere else again. Make sure you take your jelly shoes as it’s a fairly rocky beach.
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