Antico Doge is situated right on a little canal 5 minutes walk from the Rialto. You are in the heart of Venice but not in an area swamped with tourists. The hotel has been recently renovated, with the emphasis on creating a very luxurious ambience - gilt cherubs, swags of drapery, trompe l'oeil. The bedroom was really comfortable with a great shower and a window over the canal (you could hear voices and footsteps - but, of course, no cars!). Very romantic and relaxing.

Accommodation in Venice is not cheap - and neither is this hotel - but the streets are litter free, public transport is brilliant, all goods have to be delivered by boat: if you consider these costs and the taxes that businesses must pay to cover them, then it is surely value for money. You can't expect to stay in a museum for nothing!

C.po SS. Apostoli - Cannaregio 5643
Telephone: 041 2411570
Website: www.anticodoge.com

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The island of Torcello, 45 minutes from Venice by Vaporetto, is where Venice began. A perfect antidote to palaces and high renaissance art.

This tiny windswept island in the marshes was the place where the first settlers, fleeing from Attila the Hun, found refuge and laid the foundations for the mighty Venetian republic. Incredibly it once had 20,000 inhabitants before malaria took hold. Now all that's left is a wonderful church with fantastic 11th century mosaics and a bell tower which gives stunning views over allotments, marshes and the distant towers and domes of Venice.

There's also a rather fine restaurant Al Ponte del Diavolo, serving (very) local rabbit and fine pasta with wild fennel sauce (on the day we went). A perfect place for a spring lunch and to reflect on the beginnings and end of the Venetian republic!

Take the Vaporetto (LN route) from Fondamente Nuove stop. Change at Burano for shuttle to Torcello.

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This cosy wine house five minutes from the Rialto serves dozens of wonderful wines by the glass, starting at about 1.5 euros for a glass of prosecco.

Also serves delicious bar food - when it's gone, it's gone. The atmosphere is that of a private party - you can spill out on to the street or eat at little drop-down ledges, built into the walls of the shop.

A great alternative to an expensive and indifferent meal in a tourist restaurant.

Cannaregio 5984 / Salizada San Canciano

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