The sign reads 'naturally reared', 'grass-fed', 'free range', and the interior is gastro Ikea-land, but the cheeseburger (£4.50) is a thing of beauty that conspires with milkshakes (£2.95) and malts (£3.25) to erase the memory of a certain clown-endorsed emporium. Charming staff, too.

341 Upper Street, London N1, 020-7359 4436

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