The Patravadi Theatre in Bangkok is renowned, but fewer people know about the free performances that can be seen on weekend nights at the Studio 9 restaurant within the theatre compound. With stunning views across the Chao Phraya River to the illuminated Grand Palace and a good value menu of modern Thai dishes the restaurant is appealing in its own right.
But what really makes it a location for a night to remember are the free displays of contemporary Thai performing arts which are shown on Friday and Saturday evenings. With dining tables set around the performance area this is a unique opportunity to see innovative young artists displaying their skills while tucking in to a delicious meal. On the night of our visit we were mesmerised by lithe acrobats contorting themselves within swinging hoops, and seemingly magically suspended from fluid streams of silk, all to a background of haunting Thai music.
Studio 9, 69/1 Soi Wat Rakang, Arun Amarin Road
www.patravaditheatre.com
A short walk from Wat Rakang Pier. Cross river ferries run every 5 minutes until 10 pm (3 Baht) after which you will need to return by taxi.
The Tica Bus company are long established and have routes all over Central America. We travelled from Managua in Nicaragua to San Pedro Sula in Honduras via the capital Tegucigalpa. The buses were modern and clean, all border formalities were handled smoothly by the staff and it was the only trip when we managed to reach our destination early!
Two of Nicaragua’s finest natural features are within easy reach of the travellers hub of Granada. Volcan Masaya National Park is home to two volcanoes with five craters, one of which is still active and emits dramatic but noxious clouds of steam. The remaining craters provide safe walking and bird watching territory and grant amazing views over the park. Laguna Apoyo, meaning ‘healthy water’, is a beautiful and quiet spot for swimming and walks on the surrounding paths. We had lunch at one of the simple local restaurants on the shoreline to a soundtrack of howler monkeys eerie calls.
Volcan Masaya is 20k north of Granada and Laguna Apoyo just 4k north, both along the main road to Managua. If possible hire a taxi as these are both rather remote. You can take a bus headed to Managua and look out for the signs at the turn offs but be prepared for a wait for a local bus or a long walk.
The Sky Trek is a series of very high, and sometimes very fast, zip lines which whisk you through the canopy of the Monteverde cloud forest!
As we were being kitted up in safety gear we got our first glimpse of the previous group whizzing down the final stretch far above our heads, at which point I was a hummingbirds wing beat from turning back. But, determined not to miss this once in a lifetime experience I launched myself out hundreds of feet over the treetops… and loved it! Two and a half miles of cable later I was securely back on the fertile Costa Rican soil thanks to the professional and friendly safety guides.
For the faint hearted, vertigo sufferers or anyone wanting to observe the biodiversity of the forest there is the far more sedate Sky Walk.
This is a nice cheap place to stay in Santa Elena from where you can easily visit the Monteverde attractions.
The rooms are basic and have shared bathrooms, but they are in quaint little wooden cabins set in a nice garden which has beautiful views over the forest.
There is a shared kitchen if you want to cook for yourself and which is a good place to socialise with other travellers.
They organised a horse riding trip with a local guide for us which was really worthwhile.
If you need a rest from refried beans and are willing to break the backpacker budget for the day, here are two tips on places to eat in Quito's new town which will satisfy any cravings for a taste of home. Start with lunch at Super Papa which serves tasty jacket potatoes with any filling imaginable. In the evening feast on traditional fish and chips in the cosy and authentic Queen Victoria British pub.
Super Papa, Juan Leon Mera
Reina Victoria, Reina Victoria y Roca
This bar/restaurant has a fantastic spot on the surf pounded beach of the same name, a short bus ride to the west of Porto city. With a large decked area strewn with sofas, loungers and tables looking out over the Atlantic it’s a really relaxing place for a sundowner. This plus the chilled house background music and churning sea dotted with relentless surfers makes for a hybrid Ibizan/Cornish vibe.
Praia da Luz, Av Brasil, Foz do Douro
Take the No.500 bus towards Matosinhos which starts outside Porto train station and follows a scenic route along the shore. Get off just after the castle.
Livraria Lello is a bookshop-lovers fantasy. Even if you are not a reader, this 19th century shop is worth a visit for its gorgeous interior centred around a curving carved wood and red treaded staircase which could have stepped (ha ha) out of a Dali painting. Oh and there are quite a lot of books too. With a handful of comfy chairs around a coffee bar on the first floor it’s an ideal place to take a breather after climbing the Clerigos Tower opposite.
Livraria Lello, Rua das Carmelitas 144
lelloprologolivreiro.com.sapo.pt/
Great restaurant tucked away behind the Sao Francisco church with what I would term ‘retro-chic’ interior and lovely atmosphere. Friendly and attentive English speaking waiters. Good choice of Portuguese dishes with a modern/global take; the game stuffed sausage was very rich but delicious. Take cash, they do not have credit card facilities.
Cometa Restaurante, Rua Tomaz Gonzaga 87, Tel: (351) 222 008 774, no website
Take time to linger for a meal here if you are visiting the Taylors Port Lodge; it’s also worth the climb up the hillside even if you’re not. We had the terrace area virtually to ourselves on our lunchtime visit and the views over Porto were stunning. There is a fairly extensive and quite pricey menu but the food is of a really high standard and well worth the money. I had the biggest, tastiest piece of cod I’ve ever come across even in other Portuguese restaurants. Be sure to try a ‘Chip Dry’- white port aperitif; it is deliciously crisp and refreshing.
Barao de Fladgate Restaurant at Taylors Port Lodge, Rua do Choupelo 250, Vila Nova de Gaia, Tel: (351) 223 742 800, www.taylors.pt
In a cavernous room on the Vila Nova de Gaia waterfront, with diner’s comments posted all over the stone walls, this restaurant was buzzing on our visit. And no wonder when for €29.50 (€32.50 at weekends) an all you can eat and drink buffet is on offer.
The friendly staff showed us the ropes despite linguistic barriers and proceeded to foist food and alcohol on us all night. Just when we thought we couldn’t eat another morsel from the buffet tables (a huge selection of traditional Portuguese fare) we were given a fruit platter the size of a small bath, and a shopping basket full of nuts was doing the rounds. On top of the beer and wine we had already imbibed, decanters of port, and then brandy, were left on the table and finally an unidentifiable but potent liqueur. Try it if your stomach dares!
Tromba Rija, Av Diogo Leite 102, Vila Nova de Gaia, Tel: (351) 223 743 762, www.trombarija.com/gaia-rg.html
Small, chic hotel in wonderful quayside location in the Unesco World Heritage part of the city. Rooms are compact but finished to a high standard; choose a riverside room for the stunning views. Excellent service and attention to detail from the friendly and attentive owners. Beautifully presented breakfasts with a wealth of fresh fruit and locally baked bread. Ideally placed for city sightseeing and a short walk across the bridge to the port lodges on the other side of the river. Trams and buses to the beaches and other sights to the west of the city depart from a nearby stop. Porto is a charming and affordable destination for a city break and Guest House Douro is a lovely and unique place to stay. Rooms are priced from €110.
guesthousedouro.com/
Guest House Douro, Rua Fonte Taurina, Porto Tel.: (351) 222 015 135
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