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The Glamorgan Heritage Coast boasts stunning beaches and breathtaking landscapes with hidden villages and country lanes dotted along the way which are simply some of the best places to see in Wales
The Glamorgan Heritage Coast is a 14 mile stretch of coastal path walks of outstanding beauty between Aberthaw in the Vale of Glamorgan and Porthcawl further west. Dramatic cliffs, secluded coves on golden sands and stunning views make it a must for walkers, cyclists or anyone with a love of the countryside.
And not only are there the views, but the area is also steeped in history.
The ruins of Dunraven Castle stand upon the headland at Dunraven Bay. More a large fortified house than a castle, it had its own kitchen gardens and landing stage in the bay. It was lived in right up until the 1940’s but was demolished in 1963 as it was crumbling and considered unsafe.
There are many legends of smuggling and shipwrecking associated with this dramatic spot in times gone by but today it is more noted for the spectacular sandstone cliffs and for Southerndown beach which is an excellent swimming and recreational area.
Ogmore-by-Sea is another popular destination for a great day out, with amazing views along the coast and across the estuary to Merthyr Mawr and Porthcawl. Discover the many caves and explore the flora and fauna of the rock pools (but always taking heed of the ever-changing tides).
Here too stands the extensive ruin of a castle - by the River Ewenny and the Stepping Stones over to Merthyr Mawr.
Ogmore Castle guards a major fording place into southern Wales, and sits on flat land rather than atop a ridge-crest where nature would have provided extra defence. From Ogmore, Welsh access to this Norman lordship was effectively barred.
Take your time here, relax a while and refresh yourself in one of the tea rooms by the river or enjoy a cool drink in one of the traditional local pubs.
Halfway along the heritage coast on a promontory with precipitous cliffs on the west stands the medieval St. Donat's Castle.
In the 13th century St Donats was held by the de Haweys family who also had estates in Somerset and Dorset. In 1925 the Castle was sold to the newspaper millionaire William Randolph Hearst and it was commandeered for training of army officers during the war. Then in 1960 was taken over by an international school called Atlantic College, which is still thriving there today.
www.glamorganheritagecoast.com/
Southerndown, Bridgend CF32 0RP
+44(0)1656 880157
Google map: bit.ly/nh2CwU
The approach to Lake Country House and Spa takes you across the MoD firing range in Powys and the beautiful, but desolate, windswept Brecon Beacons. Thankfully we made it however, and our welcome was far more cordial at the Lake Country House.
Set in 50 fabulous acres of tended garden and wild woodland with facilities in abundance to keep you entertained during your stay. There's a nine-hole golf course to infuriate and delight, the lake where fishing is allowed (not sure if you're able to cook what you catch - best ask the chef!) and walks through the mature woodland. If this all sounds far too strenuous however, then the newly built Kingfisher Spa is available for treatments, and use of the generously sized pool, hot tub and sauna.
The rooms in this former hunting lodge are all different; from quintessential British country manor house to those with a more contemporary feel. All are well appointed with the luxuries that one would expect from a hotel of this standard. L'Occitane products are in the bathrooms reflecting the fact that the Spa has recently become the only one in the UK to use their products and treatments. Other nice touches are the bowls of fresh fruit and homemade shortbreads in your room and with a turndown service provided while you are enjoying a meal in the superb restaurant.
With two AA Rosettes under their belts you know that the dinner at The Lake Country House is likely to be special. There’s no need to go to the formality of making a reservation if you're a hotel guest, just arrive when you are ready between 7pm and 9pm and your table is waiting for you. This arrangement epitomises the relaxed and friendly service that guests are used to receiving here.
Locally sourced ingredients and a daily changing menu meant it didn’t disappoint. Choose from a set list including a full vegetarian option. You could be tempted by succulent venison, guinea fowl or a fantastically moist John Dory. Don’t be afraid to ask if you can swap options as the staff are happy to accommodate personal preferences where they can. The green pea bavarois with asparagus and artichoke on the vegetarian menu was the starter my wife fancied and it was no problem at all to change - and it was declared a success!
Dessert followed accompanied by dessert wines by the glass, again a nice touch as some restaurants just don’t cater for this option. We took our coffees in the relaxing and elegant lounge to finish and then paid the extensive wine cellar a visit. We were shown around by Luke Marriott, the front of house Manager, who couldn't contain his obvious pride at the list of bins that he has compiled. A selection that comprises decent house wines at reasonable prices and rising to some of the best that money can buy - wines for the serious connoisseur.
Breakfast is served in the dining room, which, again, is very relaxed and informal. A cold selection of fruit, juices, cereals and bakery, with a choice of full Welsh breakfast (Laver bread included), kippers or haddock to start your day. If you're feeling energetic why not take full advantage of the Spa facilities and have an early morning swim to work up an appetite?
We left reluctantly after breakfast and the warm welcome that we received on arrival was mirrored in our departure with best wishes and a promise to return to this wonderful lodge and its warm and friendly staff. The Lake Country House and Spa is a wonderful mix of old and new with the 18th century lodge and the modern Spa building looking out over the lake that justifiably has won the AA Hotel of the Year and Johansen’s Most Excellent Spa. As the accolades mount, surely a 3rd rosette for the restaurant can’t be far behind? What more do you need to pay this stunning property a visit, good food, a warm welcome and superb facilities and one more added bonus - for a small additional fee they accept our four legged friends! A truly cosmopolitan hotel.
The Lake Country House Hotel & Spa
Llangammarch Wells,
Powys ,
LD4 4BS
On a baking hot and sunny June evening why would anyone want to eat hot and spicy food? Well, ask the diners at Cardiff’s Multi-award winning restaurant Mint & Mustard - because it was packed! Even more surprising it being mid-week.
Chef Anand George developed his culinary skills in Kerala, on the South-western tip of India, before training in the five star luxury hotels of Mumbai.
After moving to London in 2005 George further honed his art in leading Indian restaurants Zaika and La Porte des Indes and gained an enviable reputation as a master of Indian cuisine. This led to the opening of Mint & Mustard, Cardiff in December 2007.
Since its opening, Mint & Mustard has firmly established itself as one of the leading restaurants in South Wales. Chef George has had outstanding success; in 2008 he won both the House of Commons Tiffin Cup and the South Asian Chef of the Year. In 2009, Mint & Mustard became the first Indian restaurant to be named ‘Best Indian Restaurant’ and ‘Best Restaurant in South Wales’ at the South Wales Echo Food and Drink Awards. George is also judging the True Taste of Wales Awards and the UK Chef of The Year for 2009. We were left wondering how he finds the time!
The philosophy at Mint & Mustard is to re-define Indian cuisine, creating sumptuous modern dishes, based on the enduring traditional flavours and spices of Indian cuisine. This was evident from the delicious tasting menu cooked for us by George.
Beginning with a selection of delicacies including Bombay Chat, which is a popular vegetarian snack with yoghurt, mint and chutney. It is placed in the mouth whole as the delicate pastry melts in your mouth leaving the refreshing palate cleansing mint yoghurt behind. This was accompanied by a moist fillet of salmon marinated in honey and ginger and a tender piece of chicken marinated with curd cheese, yoghurt and mint. Despite the fact we had already polished off the basket of Pappadams and chutneys the starters all quickly vanished amid ‘oohs’ and ‘aahs’.
Next came the fish course – a delicate fillet of pan fried sea bass accompanied by spicy crushed potatoes with curry leaves and mustard seeds and a sauce of mango and coconut. The potato had quite a kick which strangely did not detract from the taste of the bass, but was quickly cooled by the smooth sauce.
The main course was a sharing event as plate after plate was put in front of us; lamb with spinach, duck curry, cow peas with butternut squash and runner beans with mustard and coconut. The spicing was delightful, just enough to be interesting, but not too much to make you reach for the water glass after each mouthful. Each dish was different yet they complemented each other and the meat was tender and succulent. Accompanied by plain rice and a variety of Naan bread we were all feeling very satisfied by the time the empty plates were cleared away.
But, we all still had room for dessert – none of your readymade pineapple and coconuts filled with ice cream at Mint & Mustard! Instead we were treated to a thick chunk of warm tandoori pineapple, a delicately scented crème brulee with cardamom and saffron and the specialty of the house – Chocomosa (a sweet, melted chocolate filled samosa) with caramelised banana and ice cream. Delicious! In fact this was the only point during the evening in which we were all quiet!
At just £27.00 per head for the tasting menu Mint & Mustard provides a good value quality dining experience. Coupled with friendly and unobtrusive service it really is a Cardiff must-visit restaurant.
For more information visit the Mint & Mustard website: - www.mintandmustard.com/
Or, www.coupleswithoutkids.co.uk
Long gone are the days of coal and steam in the South Wales area. Now, an industry of a different kind is bringing people to Wales – hospitality.
As you cross the new Severn Bridge and follow the M4 towards Newport, The Celtic Manor Resort and Spa looms above you. A magnificent five-star resort that boasts a wealth of amenities. From championship golf courses to a 3 AA Rosette restaurant this is true pulling power. Team that with hosting the 2010 Ryder Cup and you can see why it brings in celebrities and sports stars alike.
South Wales has so much more to offer: excellent shopping in Cardiff with the soon to be opened St. David’s Phase 2; a huge John Lewis and designer boutiques are all in the new centre - and as an added boost, Jamie Oliver has announced that he will be opening his new Italian venture in SD2.
Any visit to the city centre must take in a visit to Wally’s Delicatessen. A Cardiff institution with a fantastic choice available at the Deli counter and all manner of exotic foods to tempt and tantalise.
At the top of Queen Street lies Cardiff Castle. Roman in origin and with Norman battlements it adds real presence to Cardiff’s shopping area.
Stray away from the city and you never know what you might find. Ghost Tours at Llancaiach Fawr Manor House or Tommy Cooper’s statue in Caerphilly town (as recently unveiled by Sir Anthony Hopkins). Caerphilly Castle is one of the largest in Europe and is also worth a visit.
Follow the M4 a little further and you will come across a true hidden gem. Llanerch Vineyard. Fabulous food, excellent accommodation and a truly genial host in Carole. Treat yourself and stay the night and enjoy their food as prepared by Hywel Jones. The cookery school is also available on site and run by the legendary Angela Gray.
There are many restaurants involved in fine dining in South Wales. With so many quality ingredients on our own doorstep. Who could blame so many top chef’s for staying true to their roots and using Welsh produce. Try Calon’s Restaurant at Llanerch Vineyard or Tides at the 5 star St. David’s Hotel.
The Crown at Whitebrook has a Michelin star thanks to James Sommerin and their sister restaurant The Crown at Celtic Manor is Wales’ only 3 AA Rosette. Stephen Terry at The Hardwick in Abergavenny is currently transforming his restaurant into one with rooms. There are so many to choose from now that diners are spoilt for choice.
Don’t forget to try the local specialities either. Penclawdd cockles are a delight and Laver bread (seaweed) is a must. Caerphilly cheese has a worldwide following now and can be found as far afield as America.
Thanks to our rugby team, the Brains Brewery has been getting some worldwide press. Also, award winning Penderyn whisky is distilled here as is Tyrrells vodka and gin. Cardiff market is still going strong in the capital with fresh produce daily. Our lamb and beef are world class and will be found on many a local menu.
What more could I say about South Wales... plenty. But why don’t you come and visit and write the rest of the story for yourselves.
This tiny island in the middle of the Mediterranean has commanded the attention of invaders for centuries. Romans, Turks, Knights and even the British have all had a foothold on Malta’s shores at one time or another.
Now invaders of a different kind flock to Malta - tourists!
Drawn by the year round warm weather, the fact that most of the islanders speak English and drive on the left (after a fashion), Malta is a haven for the British sun worshipper.
But, there is so much more to do here. Despite the arrival of the 5 star luxury resorts, it remains a living slice of history. Famous for its two sieges, the first in 1565 when Soleyman the Magnificent was resoundingly beaten by The Hospitallers (or Knights of St. John).
The second came during World War II when again, the Maltese and their Allies drove off the German attempt to capture the island. History faces you on every corner, making the capital city Valletta a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Maltese are a friendly enough people, if a little gruff. They do seem to welcome the British more readily than any of the other visitors that descend on their shores annually. The attractions are obvious and the new resorts on the island are springing up continually.
Five star recommendations include,The Portomaso Hilton, Dragonara Palace and The Corinthian. There are plenty more, however, including some wonderful boutique hotels.
Gozo, Malta’s smaller sister island is an altogether quieter neighbour. The hotels here are smaller and more Spa orientated. Well worth a visit.
If you have the time, why not take a day trip to Sicily? There is a catamaran that visits daily or why not travel in style and use the helicopter service?
Maltese restaurants are doing their best in a world where fine dining is king. While they still have a lot to learn, fish is where they excel. Also, local specialties are worth trying. Hobz biz-zejt with fresh Maltese bread, tomatoes, olive oil and (depending on the maker) capers, olives, tuna and salt and pepper. The cheesecakes (savoury rather than sweet) stuffed with ricotta cheese are delicious whilst the cannolli from the Busy Bee bakery are stunning. The bread too is a wonderful treat.
Being the jewel of the Mediterranean, don’t forget the beaches. The only sandy ones are in the north of the island. The rest of Malta is rocky outcrops straight into deep water. No children here!
Snorkelling along these shores is a must as is a visit to the Blue Grotto. So called because of the turquoise blue of its waters and because it’s a erm...Grotto. Other attractions include Malta Glass, a visit to Comino and the capital Valletta. Malta has survived the centuries relatively unscathed by foreign invaders though all have left their mark. After visiting Malta yourself will it have left its mark on you?
Bray, in Berkshire, was thought to have been Bibriocum to the Romans, but this place never existed and was made up by the cartographic forger, Richard of Cirencester. It is now home to two of the top restaurants in the county - the Roux's 3 Michelin starred: The Waterside Inn and The Fat Duck, also 3 Michelin Stars, owned by the renowned chef Heston Blumenthal.
If you are visiting Bray for an evening out, then an overnight stay is a must. And what could be better that a cosy cottage for two nestled on the banks of the Thames. We were lucky enough to stay at Bray Cottages' latest acquisition, Clematis Cottage, and ex-ferryman's home situated directly opposite The Waterside Inn.
Luxuriously decorated in dark purples and aubergines the cottage oozes a quiet sophistication with its decadent crystal chandeliers and romantic lighting. Throw in a smart Bang and Olufsen TV and open fire (gas luckily!) and relax amidst an abundance of comfy cushions with a glass of delicious sloe gin for an afternoon of peace and tranquility.
Both The Fat Duck and The Waterside Inn are easily accessible on foot, as are the local pubs: one of which also belongs to Mr Blumenthal. One former guest had written in the guest book that their Sunday morning lie-in had been interrupted by the close proximity to the restaurant and the associated comings and goings. However, this was not our experience at all. Far from it: we actually slept much later than normal!
Bray Cottages are both charming and elegant and provide an informal yet decadent stay for a peaceful, romantic evening.
A weekend trip to Edinburgh is a must by anyone's standard.
Unless you have to, ignore the modern day Prince's Street which is home to pubs and shops that you can find on any high street in any city in the country.
Instead head to the old part of town with the hidden alleyways and courtyards of The Royal Mile. At the top end, once the burning place for all the local witches, lies Edinburgh Castle perched atop a volcanic crag, while at the bottom lies Holyrood House - the Queen Mother’s imposing former residence.
At the entrance to the Castle is The Witchery Restaurant and rooms - voted in the top 3 most romantic destinations in the UK. Eight incredible rooms ranging from the library to the armoury are Gothic in style and extremely luxurious. I would defy anyone to stay here and not feel like a Lord.
Make sure you have a table booked at the Witchery Restaurant for the evening. My recommendation would be the Secret Garden, very romantic with a totally decadent ambience.
If you feel like working up an appetite before dinner then why not join Adam Lyal on a tour around "Auld Reekies" streets. This long dead Highwayman leads you through the haunted alleys with tales of wrong doings of ne'er do wells from Scottish history. A word of caution, you never know who you might bump into on this tour. ‘Jumper Ooters’ lurk on every corner- not for the faint hearted!
When you make it back to the land of the living make sure you pop into the wonderfully traditional Ensign Ewart for a pre dinner drink. The eponymous hero won a VC for charging the French lines and capturing one of Napoleons Eagles and his story is displayed on the walls of the pub.
There are so many other tours available in Edinburgh. From the Ghostly to the factual they all represent its long (and often bloody) history. The Restaurant scene is fast springing up in Leith, the dockside area of Edinburgh. Leith is currently under regeneration and transforming into a very modern and lively location.
Edinburgh is a very cosmopolitan city and there are some 13 million visitors every year to the Tattoo, Festival and historic buildings. It is also a UNESCO world heritage site, testament to its architecture and history. Superb bars and restaurants blend with the older buildings bringing old and new together on these cobbled streets.
Pay them a visit - just be sure to take a peep round every corner. You never know who or what you might bump into!
If you're looking for somewhere classy to stay on the West Coast The Westin St. Francis in San Francisco brings old time nostalgia to the 21st century. Located in the very heart of Union Square it is in a prime location to explore all that this city has to offer.
However if all that sounds a little too strenuous then why not stay awhile and as the saying goes "meet me at the clock". The old style grandeur shines through in the lobby of this 5 star luxury hotel. Marble doric columns all exquisitely maintained and acres of polished wood make guests feel welcome as soon as you set foot in the door.The greeting is no less warm from the staff that work here, from the doorman to reception.
The rooms are very well appointed with all the modern amenities that a seasoned traveller could ask for. Especially the Heavenly Bed, you'll be fast asleep in no time. If you can, ask for room 1132 the views across Union Square are superb.
If you do decide to "meet at the clock" then be prepared to taste some fantastic cocktails and nibble finger foods from Michael Mina. Or why not stroll across the lobby and sample this Michelin starred chefs menu for yourself. Exquisite dinner and lunch at a price that might just surprise you!
Of course you may feel the need to work off some of that excess and there is a gym if you're so inclined, or why not head to The Spa and indulge in some rest and relaxation. Treatments to suit all tastes and budgets are catered for. Whether you would like a massage to relieve jet lag or just getting your nails done - its' all here.
If you are tempted to leave this luxury retreat then San Francisco has much to tempt you with. Take a cable car to Fishermans Wharf and experience the tacky side of 'cisco. Stalls selling fresh seafood, souvenir shops and the sea lions at Pier 39. Try Boudin bakeries sourdough bread with clam chowder - delicious! But make sure you leave room for the bread. Its the best bit!
No trip to San Fran would be complete without a visit to The Rock. Alcatraz has been closed for many years now but visitors still flock to its spooky corridors. The night visit is especially terrifying and not for the faint of heart.
The ferries also take you across to Sausalito a small slice of the Meditteranean in The Bay. Art galleries, boutiques and the best sandwiches ever at the delicatessen 'Venice'. On your return the Golden Gate Bridge spans the straits and there are some great photo opportunities.
Once you return to terra firma explore Chinatown, Little Italy and Nob Hill as all these areas are in easy walking distance. Don't forget Lombard Street the worlds windiest road. San Francisco may seem like a long way to go for a city break but its accessability is it's strong point. Everything seems to be in easy reach and a cab ride is taken at your own risk...remember Bullitt?
Couple your trip with a stay at The Westin and if you need to escape the hustle and bustle of San Francisco and need a quiet oasis to recharge and regroup then The St. Francis will leave you feeling refreshed - but I'm sure that at some point you'll want to return to the Streets of San Francisco!
Situated just an hour or so drive from San Francisco, the Napa Valley is a wine and food lovers heaven. Incredible eateries and divine vineyards abound in this Californian idyll.
Napa has a vast range of wineries to choose from whether it be small and personal or the large vineyard that does escorted tours.
No trip would be complete without a visit to Yountville where Thomas Keller’s restaurant The French Laundry reigns supreme. But be warned you have to book two calendar months in advance to get in. We tried and failed miserably, so if anyone reading this can let us know about their dining experience it would be jealously appreciated.
We did, however, get a table at Keller’s Bistro also in Yountville - Bouchon and that made up in some way for our disappointment as it was superb! It is a more casual dining experience with a fun and flirty atmosphere. The menu is very much French bistro inspired with moules frites and huîtres featuring prominently. The poulet aux petit pois à la Français was simple and delicious and the braised pork cheek was declared a masterpiece. As we were celebrating birthdays, complementary signature desserts of tarte au citron and chocolate brownie ‘Bouchons’ were a welcome ending to the evening.
There are so many dining venues in Napa that you can be spoilt for choice. Local deli's with first class cheese, wine and cured meats. Fantastic breads baked on the properties with everything to go! So why not grab a picnic and take a seat in the Yountville market area. It is beautiful, with sparkling fountains and tucked away benches perfect.
If something a little more daring is your thing, then Napa Valley Aloft offer dawn balloon rides over the valley - weather permitting of course. It is incredibly serene to be floating two thousand feet over the vineyards one minute and then barely skimming the vines the next with the only noise coming from the burners used to keep us aloft. It was testament to our pilot Laura’s skill that she managed to put us down safely in a handkerchief sized field in the middle of acres of vines. A memorable experience followed by a champagne breakfast with your new found friends and fellow passengers.
There are plenty of top quality B&B's, Inn's and resort hotels to choose from for your stay. The River Terrace Inn is one of these, do choose the balcony rooms overlooking the river and take your morning coffee whilst enjoying the peace and quiet as the river gurgles by.
No trip to Napa would be complete without experiencing the Wine Train. A three hour lunch or dinner trip taking in the breathtaking vistas of the local countryside. Or, how about kayaking on the river or a trip to the Jelly Belly Gourmet bean factory? It’s not just about wine!
Napa old town has a number of mentionables too. The Oxbow Public Market has a wonderful cheese and wine tasting emporium. Run by Peter Granoff you can sit at the large bar area take a carafe of your favourite tipple and pair it with a platter of cheeses, salamis, fresh made pickles and fresh baked bread – sheer heaven. They also have Kara's Cupcakes, an Oyster bar and much more.
Pay the Bounty Hunter a visit too; it’s where the locals eat so it must be good. Speciality wines by the glass or bottle and incredible barbecued meats served at trestle tables, perfect for getting to know your neighbour.
Coles Chop House is an award winning American Steakhouse that serves some of the best Dry Aged Beef you will ever eat coupled with delicious cocktails.
There is an awful lot more to Napa then you can possibly fit in, in just a day or two. With breathtaking scenery, friendly locals and visitors alike and a diverse range of activities to suit all tastes and budgets. It is a wrench to leave this gorgeous area. They say you leave your heart in San Francisco, I left mine in Napa. I hope to return soon and claim it back.
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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