Head to Caffe Bar Talir, a few streets west for drinks with Dubrovnik's young and beautiful. It's an artists' hang-out and the walls are covered with pictures of rowdy nights gone by, as well as some Croatian C-listers and Goran Ivanisevic. Drinks are well priced and everyone spills outside to sit on the steep steps leading up towards the town walls.

Caffe Bar Talir prides itself on the fact it was one of three places that remained open throughout the Serbs' 1991 siege of the city and is nowhere near as commercial as the Troubadour Jazz Cafe now (sponsored by T-Mobile!)

Caffe Bar Talir - Antuninska, 00 385 20 323 293 open till 3am weekends

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Konoba Dundo Maroje is a tiny restaurant down one of the narrow streets leading north from the main street, Placa. Virtually every restaurant in the old town claims to specialise in fish, but as a seafood fanatic who's travelled to Dubrovnik on a budget in both 2002 and just this summer, Dundo Maroje really made an impression on my tastebuds - four times now.

The grilled squid seem to be twice the size of anywhere else and unbelievably succulent, all beautifully presented and dripping in garlic-infused olive oil. The lobster carpaccio is an unusual dish worth trying there too. What the restaurant lacks in views it certainly makes up for in atmosphere. Sippng an ice-cold Istra bitter (like Campari), your bare feet cooled by the marble pavement, watching people file past is a nice way to start your evening.

Konoba Dundo Maroje - Kovacka, 00 385 20 321 445 (Dinner for 3 with drinks £30)

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