I stayed in a small place (the minority cafe with a great cook but it may have changed hands by now) on Guihua road opposite a traditional medicine shop. It's cheaper and quieter than West Street (only minutes away) with a really great cake shop on the corner.

If walking up West Street towards the river turn left, over a bridge and it should be somewhere around there.

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This place is in the guide books but nobody seems to bother with it. It's a real escape from the hustle and bustle outside. There's also a tea shop with friendly staff (unfortunately they don't speak much English) across the street.

Across the road from the Lama Temple (Yonghegong) 100m down the lane on the right, opposite a vegetarian restaurant.

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