The locals really go to town on horse racing. Races are at Sha Tin or Happy Valley, the tourist board runs a night trip to the latter if you don't fancy heading off alone. The staff are happy to show you how to place a bet (the tickets are pretty complex) and take you ringside to get close to the action. Great fun.

Sha Tin in the New Territories: www.shatinracetrack.com;

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A cluster of parking lots in downtown NYC are transformed on a Sunday to a giant outdoor antiques market, full of trash and treasure and people-watching opportunities.

I got an amazing silver necklace for $25 a few years ago, and there's always a few oddments that are good for people back home who hate tacky souvenirs but expect a gift.

Look for the tourist leaflets - the markets are clustered around 20-something street.

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It's a museum that tells the story of Checkpoint Charlie and those who tried to cross the wall in the bad old days of the divided city. The stories of those divided by the wall are really moving, and the tales of those who made it across the divide are astounding in their ingenuity. I spent hours here, even though it's just a small building, as there is just so much to take in.

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A good place to pick up some more unusual souvenirs - lots of craft stalls here, none of the usual tourist tat - and at decent prices. Or you can just wander around and check out the people, then stop off for a cake from the shop around the corner, just over from the tourist info office. Then, head up to the harbour bridge pylon to check out the views.

The rocks, Darling Harbour

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It's a huge open space in the city to relax in and it's free. If you're into plants, there are organised walks (check out the leaflets at the gates); if you're not, it's still a lovely place to hang out and picnic, with nice views of the harbour. Don't forget to say hi to the flying fox colony...

Just next to Darling Harbour and the opera house

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Wong Tai Sin is a temple complex seemingly dumped into a suburb. Far from being just a tourist site, the temple is regularly used by the local people - I saw people there hoping for luck in exams and driving tests, among other things. Round the back, away from the bustle, is a quiet garden.

Chi Lin nunnery is a beautiful Buddhist building entirely made of wood - no steel or nails. Peaceful gardens and lily pools and few people other than nuns and gardeners. There’s sweet souvenirs too - all proceeds go towards the upkeep of the complex. Out of central Hong Kong, but a great place to find peace and quiet as well as a little culture.

MTR to Wong Tai Sin station, then a short (signed) walk. For Chi Lin, take the MTR to Diamond Hill, again the walk is signed

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