Pick up a copy of Tipp or Zitty if you speak German, or the Ex-Berliner, the English language expat mag, if you don’t.

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The budget airlines (Ryanair, Easyjet) use Schönefeld airport, in the south-east. Take the S-Bahn into the centre of town, or the Airport Express from the same station. It’s cheap, fast, and - since this is Germany - punctual. Don’t take a taxi from Schönefeld airport to the city centre: it’s a long way.

Some airlines (like Air Berlin) arrive at Tegel airport. From here take the X9 bus to Zoologischer Garten.

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This beautiful baroque palace, recently restored, on its own garden island in the Spree, is far less visited than others in the city. It houses a new museum and a great cafe.

Get there by tram from Köpenick S-Bahn (line 3) or take a boat from Treptower Park (1 hour);
www.koepenick.net/

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It’s a bar, a big ship and a swimming pool all thrown in together. Bring your trunks.

Eichenstraße 4, Treptow; nearest S-Bahn: Treptower Park, or U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor; Tel: 5 332 030

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Berlin’s most famous hotel, right next to the Brandenburg Gate and the British Embassy. The Adlon was sumptuously rebuilt in 1997. The style is classical, with Chinese-themed rooms, and plush fin-de-siecle decor. Impeccable service, and 42 different mineral waters for homesick Japanese tourists. There is a British high tea at 5pm if you have a sudden yearning for a scone. It’s not cheap, though. Rooms cost €320-€490 a night.

Unter den Linden 77; Nearest S-Bahn: Unter den Linden; Tel: 030 22610; www.hotel-adlon.de/

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Friendly place, with stylish rooms decorated by previous guests. Also right in the middle of things. Backpackers dormitory from €13. The hostel also has bike rental, laundry, and cooking facilities. The people who run it are opening a new hostel in trendy Kreuzberg in January 2006.

Chausseestrasse 102; Nearest U-Bahn: Zinnowitzerstrasse; Tel: 030 28390965

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You can get some amazing deals on cheap accommodation in Berlin. The Circus is a clean, bright, arty hostel – in fact there are two of them – just north of Hackescher Markt, right in the centre of Berlin. They have an Arabian room, an underwater room, as well internet and bar. Rooms €15-€32.

Weinbergsweg 1A; Nearest U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz; Tel: 030 28391433 or Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 39; Nearest U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg Platz; www.circus-berlin.de/

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Superior French restaurant, a stone’s throw away from the Brandenburg Gate. I have to admit I haven’t actually eaten here but it’s supposed to be good.

Unter den Linden 78; Nearest S-Bahn: Unter den Linden; Tel: 030 22652611

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Walk into any bakery for fresh 'Brötchen' (rolls in all shapes and sizes often covered in pumpkin seeds) filled with cheese, salami, schnitzel, peppers …

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The film that made Germany cool again. You’ve probably already seen it. But get it out on DVD and see it again.

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Because Berliners love the outdoors, visiting a park or garden is no guarantee of getting away. In the summer, the beaches are packed, but as soon as you start to walk through the woods or round the lakes the crowds disappear. The Botanical Garden is nice, and has a dinky cafe.

Nearest S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten or 101 bus

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Berlin's own public tourist bus route. The 100 sets off from Zoologischer Garten and goes past all the main sites - the Tiergarten, the Reichstag, Unter den Linden, and Berlin’s neo-baroque cathedral. The 200 goes in the same direction but takes a slightly different route via Potsdamer Platz. No need to get on one of those naff 'historic' tour buses.

www.bvg.de

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Magical island near Wannsee, reachable only by ferry (€2). Gardens, fountains, fake ruins, peacocks … (in May big patches of Lily of the Valley). Afterwards (with your back to the water), go right up into the woods and have supper on the terrace of the Blockhaus Nikolskoe. Built in the style of a Russian Dacha, you can watch the sun set over the island. Alternatively, go left and down from the bus stop to a picturesque river beach with willow trees.

Pfaueninselchaussee 14109, Berlin-Zehlendorf; Tel: 80 58 68 30

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Berliners are very keen on seasonal food, and love their asparagus, which is eaten fresh and white. Picked every April, May and June by a bunch of Poles. It grows in Beelitz, just south-west of Berlin. Available in season everywhere.

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A large chunk of pig cooked in solid fat. Not for the diet conscious or those with coronary problems. Served with peas.

You can eat it at: Altes Zollhaus Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Berlin-Kreuzberg; Tel: 030/692 33 00

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Enormous monument in the middle of nowhere to the thousands of Soviet troops who died during the battle for Berlin in 1945. Centrepiece is a giant statue of a Russian soldier stamping on a Swastika. The Stalin-era friezes are marvellous, if chilling.

Alt-Treptow 1; nearest S-Bahn: Treptower Park

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Berlin’s most famous dish, Currywurst is a greasy fried sausage, eaten with spicy ketchup. Good hangover cure.

www.currywurst-berlin.com

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You can take a ferry ride from Wansee to Kladow for free if you have a travelcard: it’s part of Berlin’s marvellous public transport network. Kladow is itself a great place to spend a day - stroll through the village and across the line of the Berlin Wall, past crystal clear lakes with good swimming beaches, to the Heilandskirche and castle at Sakrow. From Sakrow you can get a Viking ship in summer to Potsdam.

http:www.kladow-online.de

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Take a cruise from Wannsee, Berlin’s nicest stretch of water, in any direction. If it’s a lovely hot day you might have to fight the grannies for a seat.

S-Bahn: Wannsee

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Idyllic lake in Berlin’s main park, the Tiergarten. Hire a boat and drift among the ducks and the blossom. Relax in the cafe afterwards over a big yummy beer.

Nearest S-Bahn: Tiergarten; Cafe am Neuen See, Tel: 2544 9300

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