Pick up a copy of Tipp or Zitty if you speak German, or the Ex-Berliner, the English language expat mag, if you don’t.

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The budget airlines (Ryanair, Easyjet) use Schönefeld airport, in the south-east. Take the S-Bahn into the centre of town, or the Airport Express from the same station. It’s cheap, fast, and - since this is Germany - punctual. Don’t take a taxi from Schönefeld airport to the city centre: it’s a long way.

Some airlines (like Air Berlin) arrive at Tegel airport. From here take the X9 bus to Zoologischer Garten.

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The place where Germany’s Prominenten - in other words, its politicians, celebs and beautiful people - go to be seen. The food isn’t bad and they serve you a decent schnitzel. Close to Galerie Lafyette, Berlin’s chi-chi shopping centre.

Französische Strasse 47; Nearest U-Bahn: Französische Strasse; tel: 030 20387110

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This beautiful baroque palace, recently restored, on its own garden island in the Spree, is far less visited than others in the city. It houses a new museum and a great cafe.

Get there by tram from Köpenick S-Bahn (line 3) or take a boat from Treptower Park (1 hour);
www.koepenick.net/

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It’s a bar, a big ship and a swimming pool all thrown in together. Bring your trunks.

Eichenstraße 4, Treptow; nearest S-Bahn: Treptower Park, or U-Bahn: Schlesisches Tor; Tel: 5 332 030

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Berlin’s most famous hotel, right next to the Brandenburg Gate and the British Embassy. The Adlon was sumptuously rebuilt in 1997. The style is classical, with Chinese-themed rooms, and plush fin-de-siecle decor. Impeccable service, and 42 different mineral waters for homesick Japanese tourists. There is a British high tea at 5pm if you have a sudden yearning for a scone. It’s not cheap, though. Rooms cost €320-€490 a night.

Unter den Linden 77; Nearest S-Bahn: Unter den Linden; Tel: 030 22610; www.hotel-adlon.de/

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Every room is decorated by a modern artist, so you might find yourself sleeping beneath some multi-coloured Wellington boots or a portrait of a semi-naked model. One of the better art hotels that have now sprung up all over Berlin. Breakfast costs an extra €8.

Luisenstrasse 19; Nearest S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse; Tel: 030 284480; www.luise-berlin.de/

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I’m not generally a fan of posh hotels. But the InterConti, next to Berlin’s Zoo, is now a fun and stylish place to stay after its mega-makeover. You can play around with the rooms in the new East Wing: they have a moveable wardrobe so that you can make the bathroom bigger or smaller. From the West Wing, there’s a good view of the animals in the zoo. There’s also a fantastic spa. Rooms cost €160-€200 for a double, including breakfast. It’s worth asking if they have any special deals.

Budapester Strasse 2; Nearest S-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten; Tel: 030 26020

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Very quiet mid-range hotel, two minutes’ walk from Friedrichstrasse station. Friendly staff and a really good breakfast. The hotel is owned by a Christian mission. About €80-120 a night.

Albrechtstrasse 8; Tel: 030 308860; Nearest S-Bahn: Friedrichstrasse

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Friendly place, with stylish rooms decorated by previous guests. Also right in the middle of things. Backpackers dormitory from €13. The hostel also has bike rental, laundry, and cooking facilities. The people who run it are opening a new hostel in trendy Kreuzberg in January 2006.

Chausseestrasse 102; Nearest U-Bahn: Zinnowitzerstrasse; Tel: 030 28390965

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You can get some amazing deals on cheap accommodation in Berlin. The Circus is a clean, bright, arty hostel – in fact there are two of them – just north of Hackescher Markt, right in the centre of Berlin. They have an Arabian room, an underwater room, as well internet and bar. Rooms €15-€32.

Weinbergsweg 1A; Nearest U-Bahn: Rosenthaler Platz; Tel: 030 28391433 or Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 39; Nearest U-Bahn: Rosa-Luxemburg Platz; www.circus-berlin.de/

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Superior French restaurant, a stone’s throw away from the Brandenburg Gate. I have to admit I haven’t actually eaten here but it’s supposed to be good.

Unter den Linden 78; Nearest S-Bahn: Unter den Linden; Tel: 030 22652611

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Berlin’s best curry house, run by a splendid chap called Ashok. Very good food. You can order in English and be as noisy and un-German as you want. Mains €9-€14.

Bleibtreustrasse 17; Nearest S-Bahn: Savigny Platz; Tel: 030 8836293

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My favourite restaurant, this is a tiny Austrian place in leafy Charlottenburg. The food is simply amazing. I’m very fond of the Kaiserschmarrn pudding - a sort of sweet fried pancake. The lamb leaves me dreaming of Wales. My local.

Schlüterstrasse 67; Dinner only; Shut on Sundays; Nearest S-Bahn: Savignyplatz; Tel: 030 3131033

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Walk into any bakery for fresh 'Brötchen' (rolls in all shapes and sizes often covered in pumpkin seeds) filled with cheese, salami, schnitzel, peppers …

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Tricky to pick just one book on Berlin, but I would probably plump for Mr Norris Changes Trains, Christopher Isherwood’s sometimes infuriating account of louche early-1930s Berlin, on the brink of Nazi lunacy.

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The film that made Germany cool again. You’ve probably already seen it. But get it out on DVD and see it again.

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Because Berliners love the outdoors, visiting a park or garden is no guarantee of getting away. In the summer, the beaches are packed, but as soon as you start to walk through the woods or round the lakes the crowds disappear. The Botanical Garden is nice, and has a dinky cafe.

Nearest S-Bahn: Botanischer Garten or 101 bus

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In the summer months you can get a ferry across from the bus stop of the same name (bus route 218) and eat by the water in perfect peace … (The island restaurant goes by the tacky name of Call-a-disco. Tel: 030 8036584)

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My favourite Berlin beach, Havelchaussee is a small strip of sand overlooking the River Havel, in the heart of the Grunewald. There’s no car park, so you have to get there by 218 bus or bike. My kids like making dens in the willow trees. Most people keep their clothes on here, but don’t be surprised if some people take all of theirs off: that’s normal in Berlin.

de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Havelchaussee;
www.suedwestweb-berlin.de/struktur/v0158/s0158.html

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