Behind the bars and cafes that front Barcelona's marina in the redeveloped old port, the five and six storey blocks, once home to seamen and dockers in the nineteenth century, now house a mix of workers, students and a few self-catering tourists, like us.

Vaguely uneasy on our first evening in the dark narrow streets, we heard the jazz from "el fil Ferr" and went for a beer in the lively bar. Run by an energetic young trio, it offers light meals - meat if you want it, but try the deliciously varied vegetarian plate.

The wall posters speak of leftish politics; the clientele seemed to be doing the same, but exchanged smiles and a few friendly words in English in return for our attempts at Catalan. No other Brits in sight.

Two minutes from Barceloneta beach; closed Mondays; el fil Ferr, carrer Sant Carles 29, Barceloneta; Tel 93 221 98 36

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