Evening tours of the city. Carmen takes you on a singing tour of the city, visiting many of the places mentioned in Bizet's opera (the tobacco factory is now the University). She has a wonderful voice and makes the place come alive. Does not perform every night.

Departs daily except Tuesday and Sunday at 7pm from the corner of Calle Sto. Thomas and Calle Miguel Mañara, near the Alcazar entrance. What you pay is up to you. For more details check with the main tourist hotels.

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Pedro the Cruel's Palace (1364 with ealier bits). On a much more manageable scale than the Alhambra in Granada but even more beautiful. Interesting gardens at every turn. The gardens close at 5.00pm, so go ealier for the full experience. Opens 1.30pm Sundays, closed Mondays.

Patio de Banderos, close to the Cathedral;
tel: 954 502 323;

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Self service with excellent range of vegetarian food and a good wine selection. Situated in a basement, the queues often extend up the stairs and down the street. Plenty of secluded tables - a good place to meet old friends.

94 Hanover Street, EH2 1DR;
tel: 0131 225 2131;
www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk

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Restaurant on top floor with fabulous views of the city. The food is good too, and the lunchtime prix fixe menu is value for money. This is the place to take someone you want to impress and still have a good meal. Service is also good, and not too intruding.

Harvey Nichols, 30-34 St. Andrew Sqaure, EH2 2AD;
tel: 0131 524 8350;
www.harveynichols.com/output/Page126.asp

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Fabulous seafood restaurant. Wide range of dishes although the fish soups are best value. They are supplied by their own mussel beds - everything is very fresh. Good range of real ales and specialist whisky. Tends to be crowded at lunchtime but well worth the queue.

61-65 Rose Street, EH2 2NH;
tel: 0131 225 5979

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