Cascais, about 50 minutes by train from Lisbon, has fine sandy beaches - where men in wet suits dive for octopus - and an impressive fish market, where all the fish-sellers are elderly women.

There are frequent trains from Lisbon's Estação Cais do Sodre;
Turismo de Cascais: Rua Visconde da Luz, 2750 Cascais;
tel: 21 486 82 04

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Take a day trip to Sintra, a short train ride from Lisbon. Hike to the Moorish castle for fabulous views of fairytale palaces, with the Atlantic and Lisbon in the distance.

Regular trains from Sete Rios station or Entrecampos station (Estação Rossio closed at time of writing). Journey time is less than an hour;
www.portugalvirtual.pt/_tourism/costadelisboa/sintra

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Ride the 28 tram, which lurches and clangs its way though narrow winding streets. A cheap way of getting your bearings, but can be crowded.

www.carris.pt

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Food is not Lisbon's strongpoint, but savour the glorious custard cream pies at the cafe Antiga Confeitara de Belém.

Rua de Belém 84-92;
tel: 21 363 7423

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Go bar hopping in the Bairro Alto (high district). Wall-to-wall bars stay open until at least 3 am, but none of the drunken rowdiness you see in British towns.

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If you're a fan of the angst-ridden (in the best possible way) Fernando Pessoa, have lunch at the Cafe Martinho da Arcada, one of his favourite haunts. Located on one of the city's grandest squares, Praça do Comércio.

Praça do Comércio 3;
tel: 21 886 6213

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