Even when I was living in Edinburgh I didn't know about his little gem - it took visiting an American expat who'd moved there to discover the joys of being taken around the Firth of Forth by a pretty little ferry, and seeing seals, puffins and other wildlife with an entertaining commentary from the skipper about local sights. You could just do the round trip cruise, but it's worth stopping off at Inchcolm to for magnificent 360 degree views from the historic abbey and a picnic on the beach. My only regret was not having time to do the evening jazz cruise - maybe another time!

30 minutes by bus or car from the centre of Edinburgh (three buses per hour; by car follow the signs for the Forth Road Bridge then the brown tourist signs for Inchcolm Abbey Ferry, then head for Hawes Pier under the Rail Bridge). By train get off at Dalmeny Station from Edinburgh. www.maidoftheforth.co.uk 0131 331 5000 (sailings from April to October, though they also do private charters and weddings!)

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It might be a former prison, but the idyllic setting of Langholmen's now pretty posh hostel is a far remove from any institution we'd ever heard of. Staying in the (extensively upgraded) original cells (which sleep up to 4 people) was not only clean and comfortable, but positively deluxe compared to other hostels we'd stayed in across Europe, even coming complete with free wireless web access in all the rooms. Located bang in the heart of Stockholm, we were on top of all the sights and restaurants, though we spent plenty of time on the beach right outside the hostel entrance and exploring the 'jogging' trail. Probably the most unusual and delightful hostel experience ever, and certainly cheap for such accommodation in Scandinavia.

www.langholmen.com From Arlanda airport, take the coach or train then subway to Horsnstull, along Langholmsgatan, turn left before the bridge at Hogalidsgatan, then right at the traffic lights, over the bridge and on to the island of Langholmen, +46 8 720 8500

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