We went to a Flamenco show at El Arenal (which was recommended by our hotel and also happened to top the list of flamenco venues in our Time Out guide). You could choose to eat there (show & dinner or show & tapas) or just have a drink. It was quite pricey; they're very stern with latecomers and you have to book in advance; but it's worth it to get some idea of the breadth of the art form, especially if you don't have long in the city and can't take a chance just hanging out at bars hoping that someone will get up and sing/play. The best performance for us was from a majestic old woman who sat on a chair to sing, but got so involved that she pushed the chair away and danced too - she was mesmerising.

Tablao El Arenal, Calle Rodo 7, Seville, 41001;
tel: 954 216 492

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It may be cheesy, but I can thoroughly recommend the hop-on hop-off open-top bus tour because it gives you a great feel for the city and provides priceless orientation in little over an hour. From there we quickly decided which cultural sites we wanted to take a closer look at, and we also spotted (and visited) a very traditional, very un-touristy tapas bar near the river where local workers were taking their lunch. It was also a great way to see all the Expo buildings (both Expos) and get some background on why they were (and weren't) successful.

Operated by Sevirama (tel 954 560 693). Buses leave half-hourly from the riverside Torre del Oro (any hotel can give precise directions there). Hop on and off as you wish. One ticket lasts 24 hours.

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A truly lovely small hotel in the Santa Cruz district of Seville (formerly an 18th century tenement), it's just 10 minutes walk from the cathedral but offers an oasis of calm. It has a small rooftop pool and sun terrace; the rooms are tranquil and well equipped; the breakfasts are wonderful (cava! tortilla!) and the staff are unendingly helpful. Great for a romantic weekend and the perfect base for exploring.

Jesús de la Redención 2 (15 mins walk from the central railway station in Seville and about 25 mins in a taxi from the airport);
tel: 954 561 441; 954 561 496; 902 388 310

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