First opened in 1925, and recently renovated, this is quite simply Barcelona's finest hotel. Sitting atop Tibidabo, it rises 300m above the city, offering spectacular views, and the opportunity to walk in the surrounding hills. Wallet-emptyingly expensive, it's one of those places that, if you have to ask the price, you know you can't afford. Which is why it's popular with the likes of Harrison Ford.

Ctra. de Vallvidrera al Tibidabo 83-89; Tel: 93 259 30 00; www.hotellaflorida.com/

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This is undoubtedly the tapas bar for that authentic Catalan experience. It's a Barceloneta institution, with a long, narrow, crowded bar that is incredibly popular with locals. It might not look particularly special, but edge your way to the bar, order whatever tapas takes your fancy, and wash it down with a beer or two.

C/Balbao, Barceloneta; Nearest metro: Barceloneta

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As Barcelona grows and grows, it's good to be able to get a bit of perspective on the city's skyline. One of the most entertaining ways is a ride on these "swallow boats" that take you around the harbour.

Portal de la Pau; Nearest metro: Drassanes

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Barcelona's most romantic square is, somewhat ironically, suffused with a rather sad history. Underneath it lies the city's old cemetery. Barcelona's most famous architect, Antoni Gaudí, was on his way to visit the church there when he was run over by a tram in 1928. The square's ghosts are peaceful ones, however, and in the early evening light of a summer's day there can be no more beautiful spot in the city.

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The old maritime quarter of "Little Barcelona" and its beaches have changed almost beyond recognition in recent years. The beach is cleaner and more popular than ever, and a stroll along the Passeig Maritim, with its skateboarders, poseurs and beach bums, is a great way to work off a long lunch.

Passeig Maritim, Barceloneta, on the seafront

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Alongside la Sagrada Familia, this park is probably Gaudí's most famous creation. Apparently his intention was to recreate English-style public gardens, but if so, he failed spectacularly. Spectacularly, in that the Park Güell is a fantastical mix of green spaces, mosaic benches, multi-coloured walkways and colonnades. Topping it all off, it affords one of best views of the city sprawling below.

C/Olot; Tel (Casa Museu Gaudi): 93 219 38 11; Nearest metro: Lesseps

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Just as you wouldn't visit Paris without taking a peek at the Eiffel Tower, you can't visit Barcelona without a trip to La Sagrada Familia. Nevertheless, Evelyn Waugh managed it - refusing to get out of the car to even look at it when he was in town, considering it to be a crime against Catholicism. Of course some might take that as a compliment. Whatever else it is, the still-unfinished church is an arresting sight; by turns elegant, grotesque, inspired and twee. If you've got a head for heights, ascend one of the towers (best by foot, though there is a lift), and enjoy the views across the city. It is Antoni Gaudi's most famous legacy to Barcelona, and he lies buried beneath the nave - having dedicated nearly 40 years of his life to its construction, he died before it was completed.

C/Mallorca, 401; Tel: 93 207 30 31; Nearest metro: Sagrada Familia; www.sagradafamilia.com/

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Forget what they say about Belgium, this is the best place to come for chocolate in Europe. An old-fashioned chocolatier that has occupied the same corner of the the Barri Gotic since 1827, it's not a cheap treat, but it's ideal if you want to take something delicious home. Try the dark chocolate with almonds.

Carrer del Pi, 16; Tel: 93 320 03 42

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Sometimes it seems like half of Europe wears Camper shoes, and the Mallorcan-based company knows just how cool they are. But, if picking up some footwear on your visit to Barcelona isn't enough, you could also stay in the Camper hotel in the Raval quarter. There are only 25 stylish rooms, each decked out with TV and DVD players. Next door, is Camper's equally trendy restaurant, FoodBall.

Carrer Elisabets 11; Nearest metro: Liceu, Plaça Catalunya; Double room: €225; www.camper.com/

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Home to the Natural History museum, the city's zoo, a bewildering array of statues and a boating lake, the Ciutadella park is best on a Sunday morning. Take a walk with the locals, and, if you've got kids with you, send them off to play on the giant stone mammoth.

Avinguda del Marques de l'Argentera

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Barcelona is Europe's home of designer food of the sort made famous by the chef Ferran Adrià and his legendary El Bulli restaurant (in Roses, about two hours' north of the city). His influence knows no limits, and his scientific approach to cooking has been copied around the city and the world. But, to quote a Catalan friend: "Your eyes will be mesmerized ... but your stomach may remained unimpressed."

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The Museu d'Art Contemporani de Barcelona shares a lot in common with London's Tate Modern - mostly that the building itself is more impressive than the art collection inside. Richard Meier's whiter-than-white building is well worth a visit, though, and the square outside has become a hangout for Barcelona's skateboarders, families and tourists alike.

Plaça dels Angels, 1 08001; Nearest metro: Plaça Catalunya, Plaça Universitat; www.macba.es

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