A small chain of cafe bars offering quality and value for money. The two city centre ones are in lovely old buildings, and they combine a nice old-fashioned character with a quality range of Italian influenced food. They don't take bookings, but have an efficient queuing system, so they are probably one of the best places to go if you find yourself without a booking on a Friday or Saturday night.

South Great George's Street and Grafton Street


www.cafebardeli.ie

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The Cobalt is easy to miss – it’s located on the ground floor of a Georgian townhouse on a largely residential street on the northside. Its only identifiable from a dark blue sign on the doorway. However, inside it’s lovely: a simple cafe with basic but tasty sandwiches and snacks in two elegant rooms and an outdoor garden, decorated with art for sale.

The Cobalt is only open for lunch with occasional evening music events. It’s popular, so to get a seat try to be in before 1pm.

It’s probably the most stylish place for a cheap(ish) lunch in Dublin.

16 North Great George's Street (just north of Parnell Street East)

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This gigantic new cafe bar is located just west of the main shopping area in Henry Street and is probably the classiest place to have a snack and a drink on the northside.

It’s located in an 18th-century baroque former church, which has been restored in a reasonably sensitive manner. The church has an interesting history, with associations with Wolfe Tone, the Guinness family, Jonathan Swift, Sean O'Casey and John Wesley. Its new incarnation as a bar (Wesley must be rolling in his grave) only started in December 2005 and has yet to really find its feet - the service and food were quite erratic on my two visits.

However, it’s well worth a look in, even if just to admire the architecture. If they get the food and service right, this could soon be one of the classiest venues in the city.

Mary Street (the westward extension of Henry Street); tel: 828 0102; www.jmk.ie

www.jmk.ie

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Not as famous as the Abbey, but arguably a better quality theatre, with a great range of Irish and international plays. The interior is beautiful, much nicer than the Abbey. The bar is always a fun place in the interval, full of Dublin’s upper-crust and more impoverished arty types. The northside location thankfully helps to keep the number of southsider suburbanites to a minimum.

1 Cavendish Row (north end of O'Connell Street); tel: 874 4045; www.gate-theatre.ie

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This pub has possibly the most intimidating exterior in Dublin and indisputably the most horrible interior (all flock wallpaper and smelly carpets). The owner doesn't help by only opening when he feels like it. But for some odd reason, it's a great little place, with a surprisingly funky clientele, often made up of Spanish and Italian students who live locally. Also, it's cheap.

Corner of Parnell Street and Marlborough Street

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In a nondescript inner suburb of north Dublin, this is a truly amazing example of late Georgian architecture.It's not an exaggeration to call this one of the finest examples of late classical architecture in Europe. The casino, was in effect a private pleasure house for men only (the wife had the main house!) within a larger estate, which has now entirely disappeared. It looks small close up, a deliberate optical illusion. Inside is a stunning array of perfectly designed rooms.

Malahide Road, about 3km from the city centre.

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A hidden gem, which many Dubliners don't even know about. It's a lovely Victorian park now undergoing restoration. A private little oasis within easy reach of anywhere in the centre of Dublin.

From Harcourt Street, through the grounds of the National Concert Hall.

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This hidden gem is considered by many to be one of Europe's finest memorial gardens. It was designed by the great English architect Sir Edwin Lutyens. It's dedicated to the Irish dead of the first world war. It is beautifully maintained, a real little oasis by the River Liffey, across from Phoenix Park.

South Circular Road, Islandbridge. It's about 10 minutes walk from Heuston Station (Intercity rail and Luas stop)

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This wine bar located in a Georgian townhouse serves top class food with an outstanding collection of wine, many of which are served by the glass. The food is modern Irish, the owners sourcing much of the ingredients from their farm in Clare. It's quite simple and un-chefy, but excellent quality. The staff are very knowledgable and helpful with wine, and will often give free samples to help you choose the right one for you. It's always very busy so you need to book ahead. It's also allegedly one of the best singles bars in Dublin!

Ely Street, just off Baggot Street.

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This new development officially called Quartier Bloom, but universally called the Italian Quarter is a great little slice of modern urban development. It's a private laneway built by a developer called Wallace with an obsession with all things Italian - so he has stuffed it with some great little Italian shops, wine bars and restaurants. The Enecotta della Langhe is particularly popular for its wines and anti-pasta. It's not generic Italian, most of the units are run by people from one village in the Lombardy region, so the food and wines are all from that area. The giant mural along one side is now a favoured landmark in Dublin - it's a reproduction of da Vinci's Last Supper, but featuring people taken at random off the streets of Dublin - Jesus is an Indian student in Trinity.You can amuse yourself by looking for the secret code in the picture revealing the artist's favourite football team.

Just north of the Millennium Bridge on the quays. Close to the Jervis Luas stop.

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One of the nicest walks in easy reach of Dublin. Get the Dart train to Howth village (about 25 minutes from the city centre), turn left and walk past the harbour (also a lovely walk and has a great restaurant called Aqua).Keep following the coast and you will find yourself on a wide unpaved path that runs along the southern part of Howth Head. Get ready for a bracing walk with fantastic views over Dublin Bay on a nice day. If you keep walking for two to three hours you eventually arrive in Sutton. Keep walking along the coast and you will end up at the Marine Hotel. You can get back to Dublin from the Sutton Dart station.

Howth Head, north Dublin

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Moore Street has become the centre of the new multicultural Ireland. There are lots of traditional old stalls (probably the cheapest place to buy meat and vegetables in Dublin), but there is also an amazing collection of shops and restaurants owned and run by the Chinese, Russian, and African communities.

Moore Street is just off Henry Street, leading to Parnell Street

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A tiny place, and a somewhat bizarre hybrid of Chinese takeaway and Irish greasy spoon cafe. But it's cheap, friendly, and the Chinese food is surprisingly good.

Capel Street

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The other great fish and chip place that starts with a B. Not as good as Burdocks, but superior to any of the usual fast food outlets. There is a very nice branch in Howth, but for most visitors the most accessible is the O'Connell Street branch. There is a great view of the street from the seating area on the first floor.

O'Connell Street, Dublin

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The main centre for foreign and art movies in Dublin. The institute is in a lovely converted Society of Friends building and is a great meeting point for anyone interested in cinema. There are training events, movie seasons, a bar and specialist shop. A lovely place to hang out, although the food and service in the bar is a little substandard.

Eustace Street in Temple Bar

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A great restaurant with a good buzz almost every evening. It's not the most comfortable, but the quality of the food and service more than makes up for it. 101 Talbot is unusual for an Irish restaurant in that the veggie and vegan options are often better than the meat dishes. Probably the best place for your pre-theatre meal if you are going to the Abbey or Gate.

Upstairs of No 101 Talbot Street

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Very funky little bar in a generally run down part of town. Great music most nights with an eclectic bunch of DJs that almost match the clientele in weirdness.

Corner of Benburb Street and Queen Street.

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A classic little Italian restaurant. Nothing very special about the decor, but the pizzas and pasta are well above average, the mainly Asian staff are very friendly and it's excellent value for money. The owner is a cycling enthusiast, so the restaurant is decorated with bikes and Tour de France photos. A great place for any cycling tourists to start or finish their Irish tour.

Capel Street

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Possibly the cheapest food in Dublin. An old-style greasy spoon cafe that serves the workers in the nearby markets, and any hungry passers-by. Not for someone trying to cut down on cholesterol, but a fun and cheap place to fill your stomach and a good place to meet real Dubs.

Mary's Lane (just off Capel Street)

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