A palace with pictures crammed onto every inch of wallspace: founder of D-P family fortunes Innocent X (Velasquez' greatest portrait) has a room to himself while Caravaggio and Titian compete for attention elsewhere with Bernini and Raphael. Sumptuously decorated salons and a glittering mirrored gallery: space to wander and gaze without queueing or jostling crowds. Price of entrance (€8) includes excellent personal audioguide by Jonathan Pamphilj: art history interspersed with family anecdotes.

Piazza dei Collegio Romano no.2Tel: 066797323www.doriapamphilj.it

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Perfect neighbourhood trattoria in Trastevere. Abruzzi specialities, fresh grilled fish on Fridays, great bread and olives, enthusiastic service. Approx. €30 each for 3 courses incl.wine.

Via di S. Francesco A Ripa , NW of Piazza S.Francesco d'Assisi

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