An excellent modern hotel in the Shidome district, with staggering views in every direction, and extremely helpful staff, this hotel is close to metro and JR stations, and within walking distance of the fish market, Ginza, and numerous reasonably priced restaurants. The hotel itself has a Michelin starred restaurant serving traditional Japanese food.

Our only quibble was that like many things in Japan the entrance to the hotel is so understated that it is easily missed, so it is rather hard to find when arriving jet-lagged from the train. Limousine bus would be better, as it goes straight there.

Shiodome Media Tower, Minato-Ku, near JR Shimbashi station. All details and a good map are on hotel website www.parkhoteltokyo.com

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Bon serve Fucha Ryori cuisine, a form of Zen vegetarian cooking originating in China but developed in Japan. Small delicate and beautiful dishes are served in measured succession, in a private room on Tatami mats. We had about 11 courses (we lost count).

The service was immaculate: serene, polite and friendly, quite unlike anything European, and the whole experience was calm and almost meditative.

The restaurant is tucked away down a back street of old Tokyo houses. Booking is required.

Ryusen 1-2-11, Taito-Ku, near Iriya station (Hiriya line). Phone 03 (3872) 0375. Do not rely on the map provided by the restaurant, which is inaccurate. Get someone to look it up for you in the Tokyo street atlas.

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Extremely popular restaurant in beautiful setting in a vinery, pleasant ambience. Interesting, though not outstanding food.

Our experience was marred somewhat by rather poor customer service: our main course took about an hour to arrive, and we pointed this out twice. We were confronted by the owner when we left, asking if we were the people who had complained, and stating that he didn't think that it had taken too long for us to be served. We won't be back, but perhaps we were just unlucky.

Red Hill, Mornington Peninsula, approx 2 hrs from Melbourne.

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