A riad is a guest house, and this is the nicest I've ever been in. Built around an airy, beautiful courtyard, it has five lovely rooms, all with very comfy beds and lovely bathrooms.

There's also a gorgeous roof terrace with great views of the city to go with your breakfast. The staff couldn't be kinder, Illius and Radi and Fatima run a very welcoming place. And it's within a 10 minute amble to Jemaa el Fna. So good we stayed there twice!

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It's a gorgeous hotel with a roof-top pool and the most beautiful rooms. Go into town to Jagat Niwas for dinner, then stop off on the way back at the Lakeshore Hotel for drinks.

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My new favourite hotel in the world!

The building itself is beautiful; a small, gorgeously restored haveli with astonishing attention to detail (handpainted fresco walls that have to be redone after every monsoon), and a great pool.

The food is fantastic, the chef will listen to anything you have to say, then knock up something wonderful (ask him for his excellent off-the-menu Rajasthani thali, only Rs300 for 2).

But it's the staff that make this jewel of a place so special; they're kind and caring and friendly and considerate, especially Abdul, the head houseboy and Hanuman his sidekick.

They don't yet have a drinks licence, but there's a beer shop around the corner, and the guys don't mind you bringing it into the hotel at all; there's a fridge in each room. Plus, there's plans for a bar in a few months.

So good we went back again a week later! Note, the website pics were taken before the pool was built.

www.shahpurahouse.com/

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