"The Thai cafe" is what we affectionately call this treasure. Once a kitchen with communal tables in a Thai food shop, it has now moved two doors away, leaving more room for diners. The food is exquisitely fresh and beautifully presented, and the service is excellent. Watch your order cooking — the kitchen is visible from the restaurant — and learn how to cook it yourself: the chef gives lessons. A friend who moved to Spain daydreams about how her order might be flown to Granada. I dream of the hot sour soup with mushrooms, and the prawns and long beans in oyster sauce.

320 Upper Richmond Road, SW15
Tel: 020 8789 8084

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