Beautiful frescos and ambience. Step back in time. Opened in 1720. If it was good enough for Casanova, Lord Byron, Proust and Rousseau, its good enough for me!

Piazza San Marco, facing the Basilica, it is on the right hand side about half way along;
tel: (041) 520 5641;
www.caffeflorian.com

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Restaurant serving traditional Slovenian fare. I packed snacks for a trip to Ljubljana, expecting the food to be bad. My friend and I were so impressed with this place, we went back three nights in a row. You must try prekmurska gibanica, a Slovene speciality with poppy seeds, cottage cheese and apples. Truly addictive. The game plate is also excellent. Popular with the tour groups, but don't let that put you off. Great food and very inexpensive.

Torso d.o.o. Ciril Metodov trg 18;
tel: +386 1 439 68 55
Fax: 01 430 01 17
www.gostilna-sokol.com/gostilna-sokol.asp?lng=eng

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Very dark cafe/bar. The tables are old sewing tables with sewing machines (hence the name). Lots of candles and old mirrors set the mood. The back room is almost pitch black - very cosy for a romantic drink. Great soundtrack too.

ul. Estery 22;
tel: 012 292 06 22

Open daily :09:00-03:00

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Needs little explanation. Well worth a visit. The main site is a museum, with photographs and exhibits. Following the planned trail leads you through the cells and ends up in a gas chamber. The Polish hut contains photographs and information about the struggles of the nation. Also go to Birkenau, which is about 5 minutes on the bus from the main camp. The sheer size of this camp (aka Auschwitz II) is astonishing and eerie. The 'Death Gate' is enough to send chills down your spine.

Buy the guide (4zl) at the entrance to Auschwitz which is very informative, otherwise you can take an expensive organised tour.

Trains from Krakow to Oswiecim go every 2 hours or so and take 90 minutes from Krakow. From the train station, it’s around 15 minutes to walk to the site. Entrance to the site is free.

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Krakow (wrongly or rightly) claims to be the birthplace of the bagel. Well, these are pretty damned good. A bit more expensive than your average meal in Krakow, but worth it! The owner chats away whilst cooking. The place is small and cosy. The bagels delicious. Also serves what looks like amazing Mexican food - doesn't skimp on the servings! Closed Mondays.

ul. Podbrzezie 2;
tel : 012 431 19 42;
Open daily: 10:00-21:00;
www.bagelmama.com

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Arty bar/cafe with old-style decor. Lots of old family photos in the middle room, then go through what seems like a wardrobe to an 'art space' - complete with projections on the walls, then into another room - a darkened kitchen. They make a mean cappuccino!

Plac Nowy, Kazimierz, Krakow;
tel: 012 428 47 80;
email: alchemia@alchemia.com.pl;
www.alchemia.com.pl

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Great restaurant on the old town square. Sit outside and marvel at the beauty of the town or go inside for a modern taste of Poland. Great food and service, reasonably priced for a tourist location. And all beautifully presented. I'd recommend the Polish chocolate torte (if you have the room).

Rynek Glowny 39;
tel: 012 433 70 10;
www.podkrzyzykiem.com

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