Huge concrete building packed with market stalls selling fish.

Fresh stuff gets snapped up early (4am) in the morning by chefs, but whatever time you get there you can choose your catch and have restaurants in the same building cook it up for you.

Prices are marked so you won't get ripped off (although there's always a little room for haggling) and it's all very photogenic.

Subway Line 1- Noryangjin station (follow the map in the subway station when you arrive).

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Enoteca is a pair of wine bars where bottles start at around 90RMB- the same price as you pay in a Shanghainese supermarket.

The low profit margins don't mean that corners are cut though, as the service is spot on, French-style bar food (Croque Monsieur, creme brulee) is delicious and the XinTianDi branch has great live music on Wednesday nights.

Classy on the cheap with a loyal following.

Enoteca 1
53-57 Anfu Lu, near Changshu Lu
Tel: 5404 0050

Enoteca XinTianDi
58 Taicang Lu, near Jinan Lu
Tel: 5306 3400

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Windows Scoreboard- the best of the three Windows around town, Scoreboard serves up a steak dinner for 30RMB, and 10RMB beers to a crowd of expat college kids and credit crunchees.

The music is a lot better than the service, and there are screens showing random TV channels everywhere you look, but it's hard to argue when Fish and Chips cost 10RMB a plate.

3F, 681 Huaihai Zhong Lu
near Sinan Lu
Tel: 5382 7757

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C's Bar
Open until the last person leaves, students and expats rolling dice together over classic Hip-Hop, occasional left-field club nights (check out Antidote or Brown Nylon Suit), 10RMB beer, 20RMB whiskey.

685 Dingxi Lu,
near Fahuazhen Lu
6294-0547

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On clear days, it's hard to beat the view from the Nanpu river in the South of Shanghai.

Tickets cost 68RMB to go up the elevator to the start of the bridge's arch. From there it's some 360 steps to the observatory deck at the top.

From this point you can see the Expo site (opens in June 2010), and the city laid out like a map as far as the eye can see: The Pearl Tower, the Financial Centre, People's Square, and miles of skyscrapers in every direction.

Ticket office at the very end of Lujiabang Lu (near Xietu Lu).
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ispyshanghai.com

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The Shelter is a dark tunnel that is currently beating all nightclub competition in the city by a mile.

Hip-hop, dub, techno and d'n'b all sound good in this underground spot where the drinks are reasonable, people smile while they dance and the pretentious need not apply.

No chrome, no flashy lightshows, no rolling dice, no sparklers in Champagne bottles, great music. A breath of fresh air (despite all the tobacco smoke).

5 Yongfu Lu near Fuxing Xi Lu.
Line 1 Changshu Lu Station
6437-0400

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