This sweltering, sprawling market spills from the streets onto the sea of sand which makes up the longest beach in the world. It's 5 hours further east of Chittagong and can only be reached by bus ... so, why do I recommend it? Simply the combination of everything.

The social chaos of Bangladesh sprawled across the sands, the crowds of worn, warm faces that follow your every move (even when you take a dip in the ocean), the sun setting over the Bay of Bengal and the rickshaw back to your hotel for fresh hot curry and clay-oven baked naan ... yum-yum!

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It's not just something people like to go on about, Bangladesh's buses are the worst I've ever been on ... When you have to do it, do it by day.

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