We've just returned from four nights at this apartment in Castellammare del Golfo, and had a wonderful time. The owners are incredibly helpful, the view from the terrace is spectacular, and the town is perfectly positioned for exploring the beautiful north-west of the island. It's also very reasonably priced, and our favourite feature was the outdoor kitchen on the terrace. A great find.

Castellammare del Golfo
www.leomar-sicily.co.uk/

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A wonderful, authentic free-entry flamenco bar. It is a small tiled cafe where singers, guitarists and dancers walk in and play. Camaron de la Isla is supposed to have arrived one night and sung until 10am. One night, we stayed in the back room and saw totem faced Andalucian gitanos necking bottles of Bacardi, and playing the most gut-wrenching bare-souled music you could witness.

It's on Cava Baja, in La Latina.

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Beside the lake in the pleasant Parque del Buen Retiro, the equestrian statue of Alfonso XII is a grand enough tourist sight, but the area around it really comes alive on a Saturday evening. Hordes with Djembe drums assemble around the curved column and hammer out a thunderous rhythm; locals dodge the mostly leniant eyes of the police and hand out cheap beers from ice bags; technicolour girls twirl pois and the night has started.

Parque del Buen Retiro

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An absolute gem of an Indian restaurant, tucked away in an unexpected spot. Best service I have experienced, a fabulous menu and a grand decor. This place is packed every night of the week, but we still made sure we took every visitor we had in 9 months!

Calle Zurbano, metro Alonso Martinez

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